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2320-00-050-8905

Insurance people always ask, I'm curious myself, and we know what most rifles and other fun stuff cost the government as part of their entire contract to build "x" amount of units. I've come across two amounts a while back ($60k and $145k), but these are not official and are far apart in price...

I added water to the last sample I posted and most of the fluid has moved to the top. It seems that the fluid from the wheel cylinder is mostly dot 5 with a little dot 3 in there.

162tcat - I am planning to do everything you mentioned. My 5 rubber lines should arrive this week and will get replaced. The brakes worked well enough when I last drove it although not until the last 2-3" of pedal so I plan on doing the minor adjustment to the shoes. Now, in terms of...

Ok, here is a sample from the right rear wheel cylinder with NO water added. Lots of tiny bubbles initially, but now the bubbles are just in the top. Do you think this is a mix of 3 & 5? Should I add water to learn more?

Well I drew a sample of fluid from the MC and it could be bad news... This mixture is half water / half brake fluid from MC after an hour of sitting and there is zero separation. I have a bad feeling the PO simply added "brake fluid" from the parts store (DOT 3) into the MC. He did mention...

Thanks for all of the good info! I searched the forum numerous times but must not have had the right key words. That 'part target' site is a new one for me and I'll keep an eye on that one.

My TMs denote nothing with "DOT 5" in their verbiage, but it was published in 1972 which may be prior to that classification name. So 2 questions now: how much do I need for a complete flush? And what size is the master cylinder plug threads so I can get the correct adapter for the pressure...

It's time for me to replace the rubber brake lines and flush out the old fluid that might have been mixed by the PO. The TM only states "non-petroleum" product and I'm not sure what that would be called today. DOT 5? I have read of some guys converting to DOT 3, but I don't want to mess with...

Should my flywheel housing have a plug here? On my M813 there is currently no plug as shown, but is this hole supposed to be open or does it need a plug? Is this just an inspection hole?

I'll have to take your word for it as I'm probably too young to have seen shiny screws on M809 series trucks. I found the mil-spec screws and the black oxide coated stainless screws sound groovy for data plates & headlight switches! Thanks for the link!

I'm looking for (7) 16R20s on rims. I'll send you a PM.

Yes those! What type / application are they for and where can a fella find them?

I know it's risky resurrecting old posts - shame he's not on here any more.

Finally snapped a pic of the screws I need:

MilitaryRestoration, could you please tell me about the wheels on your M818? Those are the wheels I want and they do not look like a bolt-together combat wheel - are they HEMMT 2-piece (front) and 3-piece wheels (rears) ?

Thanks! It was one of those rare times when everything fell in place: "look at this truck - it's just how I would spec it if I were ordering one. That's my truck. Hey, it's located in my state. It has a clean title & collector plates. The overall condition is very good. That price is...

I bet one could use strong magnets to hold a boot in place over the pto lever so that you could still retain the lock out function of the hinged piece & keep it covered when not in use. Maybe a few magnets out of a starter?

Thanks for the link - those look like good pieces and are half the price of NOS. It looks like they did put one on the winch control lever according to the TM and it might be the same part as the t-case boot...

It feels good to finally contribute MY own photos of MY truck instead of only being able to admire everyone else's. 4" of fresh snow this morning