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I had a knee replaced on Aug. 12th so I was ecstatic yesterday when I went out to the shop and could crawl into the DuraVee. Man. it was great to get out on the road again today in the DuraVee even though it was only a 45 mile jog to the doctors office! The fact it rained so hard on me on the...

That would be one way to go, but just remember rivnuts do not provide as much structural integrity as a nut and washer and you would need flush fitting rivnuts and taper the hole so the hinge fits flush against the body.

I cannot say as I have not had one to evaluate but there are plenty here that have.

Fortunately the harness connectors look nice and clean so you are probably good to go there..

At least you have the "later" style PCB, makes it much easier to replace than the original one, there should be an extra hole in the body for the early style glowplug harness, probably where all the moisture came from, if you had the early style you would have needed to find and change the...

I would say that PCB box is toast for sure, it probably looks the same on the inside as the outside, you may as well drill out the rivets and see. Ol grumpy may be here also so... There are some folks with allot of knowledge that are a little short tempered when it comes to n newbies. And yes...

The very first section is the troubleshooting for the fan, it could be electrical and or the clutch is simply stuck

Ohm out the one you have and see if it is going to pin F on the engine side PCB harness pin. There are ways around everything (jury rig) but getting the actual problem fixed is always the best solution, you did not answer the other questions I asked about the PCB box.

Also if you can post a picture of the label on the PCB, being a 1986 it is possible you have an obsolete (problem) PCB to begin with, does it have one or two harness connectors going to it from the engine side? The original setup had a harness just for the glowplugs.

Does the wait light work normally? it should stay on for about 8 seconds when the engine is cold.

BTW Welcome to the SS forums!!! It is in the PCB, you can confirm that circuit breaker CB-2, wire tags #27 behind the inst. panel is not getting power before going into the PCB. Careful inspection of the connectors on the PCB is also a good idea. Can you hear the relay close when the switch is...

I also see the A/C terminal does not have a wire on it, that should be tag # 2A IIRC that tells the PCB that the engine is running but should not be keeping the alt from charging as it must be excited and charging before there will be AC voltage on that terminal

I have swapped a couple tail gates and never had an issue with getting to the nuts on the back side, challenge yes but not impossible. Of course removing the body mounts is no big deal ether, I personally would go that route before trying to drive the pins out.

Also the wire tag for the IGN terminal on the reg should be 5A, you are correct that it needs 24V to excite the alt.

First check that the relay is latching up when the run switch is on, one way to confirm this is it also powers the heater blower so if the heater blower works when in run position then the relay is likely good, this relay has a history of failure. Remember when troubleshooting (or any other...

I suppose it is possible they could ohm out OK when cold but open when power hits them. Did you replace all of these at one time?

If it was the cat it should also smoke excessively at highway speeds and have low power

PM sent

What are folks using to replace the single 24V battery in the MEP-831A?

Can you turn the input shaft? if so does it have some resistance? If you take the top off can you see the fly weights turning in the governor housing? That IP needs to go to a diesel injection shop, replacing that piece will not likely get the IP going. EDIT, It does look like something seized...