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I was notified the EUC was submitted and later the same day it was approved, so it does get faster the more times you submit an EUC. Will go and pick up my new treasure early next week. I am surprised I have not heard from any other 4 speed R1 owners...

You could have fixed it or even installed a GPS speedo that fits right in the hole for around $50, especially if you were ever concerned how far you have driven.

OH, in that case there is no possible way, speedos get changed all the time. I bought one junk truck that had a much newer speedo with very few miles on it that had just been stuck in the dash without even connecting, I pondered why someone would put that speedo in that junk truck. The only...

Is there some reason you do not have an odometer?

The 4L80 is not that smart, it was GM's first attempt at computer control.

He did his and I did mine.

Where did you get the numbers for these magnetic plugs? (DO NOT ORDER THESE!!) These are 3/4 NPT you are going to have one hell of a time trying to thread these into ether the drain or fill plug holes on those diffs. Oh well I guess I have them just in case I ever actually need them, of course...

Well you called it an A1 in the first post, R1/A1 makes no difference if it is a 3 speed, as I said I did not think you were using the correct troubleshooting guide. If there is no indication of failure, fluid, particles in the pan etc. I would put it back together and make sure it is not a...

Have you tried putting the transfer case in 4lo or HL? The trans itself is as I said fairly simple, if it has fluid and a clean filter but will not pull it is probably a mechanical issue you are not going to be able to resolve. I think the reason we all went for the 4L80 is because I think this...

That is the "passing" valve, it would have a switch on the IP that would send voltage to it at WOT and would have nothing to do with your problems. There is nothing electronic about the 3L80 as far as pressure control etc.

Sorry, I completely missed the A1 part :eek: Does it pull in reverse? The 2-3 valve is in the valve body, you would have to pull the valve body to get access IIRC. Those things are pretty much bullet proof until they are toast, again was there any metallic or clutch material in the pan?

If you get to the point that you have the pan back on you can unplug the TCM. With the TCM connected it will try to pull in 1st gear unless you have a problem that is putting the trans in limp mode, with the TCM disconnected it will try to pull in 2nd gear, I have seen a 4L80 that would not pull...

How did the fluid look? was it bright red or more of a blood color?? was there any friction material in the pan?? Sounds like the trans might be toast

In the valve body accessible by removing the pan and filter. Google is your friend.

Because it is the same connection I would suspect an issue with that connection. I would start by replacing that piece of line and clamps.

The return circuit does get pressurized by the Cadillac valve to turn the fan off, your clamps must be able to withstand at least 100 PSI It is possible the Cadillac valve is creating too much back pressure also.

Believe me I am not trying to be harsh but we see this type of thing happen all the time to folks new to the HMMWV world, too bad you did not come here first, you spent allot of money getting to that $.50 fix. https://www.steelsoldiers.com/threads/keyed-switch.219329/#post-2572440 Please look...

It is also possible it is the speedo itself, less likely since it got better with lubrication, I use good ol axle grease and have for 50 years

Also remember the shunt that is mounted in the battery box is in the negative lead, sometimes folks assume it is positive, it also has connections inside and outside of the battery box.

S and T at the diag port should activate the starter, if not it is the batteries, the starter or the cables. Check the voltage at T using the block as a ground for the meter while connecting to S if it stays at 24V and the starter does not activate then it is likely a starter/solenoid issue or...