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Just some pointers. 1st You'll want to run the unit a little above 60hertz, I usually set all mine to 61.5 hertz so when they are fully loaded you will be at 59..9 2nd If you run it long make sure you move it away from the wall on the left side. One each side, it has screens that pull in the...

The float in the storage box is the sender for the aux fuel pump and the low fuel fault indicator. In the TM is a way to ohm it to see if its good. You got a good score!

From the hard starting and the puffs of smoke I'm seeing in the video, you really need to get your injectors tested. Does it smoke a lot at start up? If so you probably have a leaking injector nozzle flooding the combustion chamber and that is why it's hard to start. I know a lot of people will...

Those are some nice units out of VA. One item that you might want to get before you get the units home is a roll of the fuel returns line. Since the units are low hour and been sitting a while, the fuel return lines crack and leak. There are a couple of threads about it. With real low hour...

Great to have you back!! The 803a's are easy to work on with minimal experience. I think you'll really like them over the 00a models.

Sounds like s8 reconnection switch with corroded contacts. You have to work it left to right sometimes 100+ times while spraying electrical cleaner to clean the contacts. Usually if a winding is shorted, you wont get any output.

Also try Delks Army Surplus 336-629-0991, you'll speak to William. I would get the water pump off feabay and the fan from Delks.

I mounted one for a customer on the side of the generator.

Google: Facet 480517E They run about $120. I would just replace 1 of the pumps, the fuel hoses will reach to reroute for 1 pump.

If they are gummed up, you will not hear anything. I use nearly a can of cleaner on the pumps when they are gummed up to break them loose. Most of the time I will just take the main fuel hose off the tank and fill it full of carb cleaner and let it sit after I have cleaned them with the bottoms...

Take the bottoms off the pump and spray carburetor cleaner all in there. It's more than likely the pumps are gummed up. The connections to the pump just pull apart at the black connectors (yours are painted green) that are located about 8 inches from the actual pumps. In your picture they are...

When looking at the switch with the access door down. Number 3 should be on the left towards the bottom and 7 is on the right towards the top of the switch.

Take a picture of the switch and send it to us. Or describe the look of the switch so we can tell what switch you have, 3 different version's available.

I believe some have used resistor's on the gauge to give a more accurate reading. There are a few threads with the information in it but I can't remember which ones they were.

Looks great!! One of the nicest I have seen in awhile.

Is the dead crank in the "normal" position?

If anyone finds a torque wrench with in/lbs at a reasonable price please let me know. The cheapest I have ever found is in the $100+ range and I can't justify spending that on a tool that is not used much. Although I have needed it on 3 different occasions so far. I usually hand tight the well...

Yes, electrical current going from pin7 to pin1.

It is good. It runs from pin 7 to 1 which is the way my other was set-up.

I charged the batteries with a GEL battery approved charger and they are now sitting at 13.5 volts each and still have the same issue with the fuel solenoid. Now voltage drops from 27 volts to 22 volts when starting. I've got a brand new S1 switch so I may trade them out to see if that is the...