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Here's a list of all the different filters that will work, and some are rated better than others
http://www.hummerknowledgebase.com/parts/list/005.html
STE/ICE
an extremely outdated military diagnostic tool that is pretty much worthless to try to use.
It's not needed and not really used, except in some rare troubleshooting tests it's slightly more convenient to use a multimeter here instead of at the components.
It might have been me, since I know I've linked it a few times.
the Spicer test from 2007.
https://www.dieselplace.com/threads/lubricity-additive-study-results.177728/
Personally I'm running optilube XL not the XPD as it's the same price but treats twice as much. XL is just for lubrication...
it's pretty simple. The 2x2, 5x2, 10x2 genius chargers all have 2 sets of wires coming out that go to battery positive and negative posts. One wire set goes to each battery positive and negative. It doesn't matter which wire set to which battery, just match up positive to positive and...
If I was closer I'd be down in a heartbeat.
Not because I need it or want to use it much, but because it would add one more way to set up my truck (I'm up to about 4 or 5 different setups between mid height helmet hard top, troop carrier, pickup, and currently back to BEOD installed)
aux fuel line with quick disconnect is what it looks like to me.
Very interesting frame.
Here's a different picture I found with a different generator and storage box on it
If you're off of paved roads all the time, then it would make sense to run lower pressures like that all the time, but on paved roads at higher speeds you're going to kill your tires pretty quickly at those pressures.
For on road use you're probably looking at 25+ PSI empty, and 30+ loaded. I...
You mentioned a 200 amp alternator in your first post (and it does make a difference, so thank you for specifying that)
Here is the manufacturer's troubleshooting guide. Just follow what it says
https://www.ceniehoff.com/Documents/Ctrl_Hyperlink/TG17_uid252021123202.pdf
215-220 is normal operating range. If it goes above 230 then you can start to worry, but below that you'll drive yourself insane chasing issues that don't exist trying to keep it running at lower temps than it's designed for.
You might look through this thread to upgrade to the newer style of rear bracket that goes further down to the block, rather than the exhaust stud. I replaced the exhaust stud several times, including with higher grade stud, and still sheared it because the exhaust manifuld isn't perfectly flat...
For tires I bought from Feltz. Great customer service, and you can buy tires with guaranteed date codes and 100% tread for a pretty good price.
https://feltztire.com/
agreed; it's a dead end system, and as long as it has pressure that's all it cares about. The air will compress, and eventually it will bleed itself given enough cycles.
Is there 24V going into the cadillac valve? If no power, then it won't disengage the clutch.
2 places that it gets power, through the TDM and the thermoswitch. If either fails then you'll either get voltage 100% of the time or 0% of the time.
Check for power going into the thermoswitch, and...
Short answer is no, you need a battery.
Longer answer:
That 45 amps likely doesn't any electrical surge at startup into account, as it's momentary, but it's unlikely the Orion is designed to handle that type of momentary power spike. Part of the reason you hook an air compressor like this...
To get 12V power you'd either have to wire in a new power outlet off just the rear battery, or pull the passenger seat to access the batteries every time you wanted to use it.
Max power is listed as 540 watts, so on 12V that comes to 45 amps draw.
It's usually considered to not be a good idea...
I don't have a rear bumper so I can't mount one, but it's definitely good info and I think I even downloaded all the images and links at some point in the past.