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I believe the 3 part ones are aluminum, not magnesium. https://www.easternsurplus.net/PartDetails/6715/HM-981-HMMWV-Runflat-Kit The earliest version was a 2 piece magnesium run flat. General consensus on these is to scrap them out or use them (small pieces only) as fire starter material...

No other fuel filter, unless you count the "sock" on the end of the fuel pickup tube in the tank. I'll agree that the fuel check valves and tank need checked. If the fuel filter had gunk in it, then the gunk had to come from somewhere. It's unlikely, but also check the air intake system as...

I have yet to have an issue with mine. There should be a 15 amp fuse in the nato plug portion of it that will, in theory, blow before any other issues occur. RAK15 is rated at 15 amps, so it is a little close, but as I said, no issues with mine yet, including having it operate while playing out...

That's the cable I'm using with an adapter for my RAK15 or my chinese diesel heater when camping. It's rated for 15 amps power. I believe it's designed to be used with a battery or radio charger.

Not sure the actual amount of time it takes, as I usually turn it on just as soon as the glow plugs stop cycling, and don't use any water out of it for at least an hour. The food is going to depend on multiple factors, because the food is in a pan, inside of the warmer, and so there will be...

I have the RAK15 mounted in my truck, but it's not the best mounting and a little unconventional. Currently I have a 40mm can bolted to the top of my radio tray as lockable storage. I then used standoff nuts on the posts on the back of the RAK15 and bolts into them from the side of the ammo...

If it's something you might possibly need to remove at some point in the future, epoxy is a bit overkill I like using DAP Ultraclear or Lexel clear sealant on things. Great, flexible bond, but can be completely removed later if needed (unlike RTV) EDIT: it was silicone I was thinking of when...

Found this https://forums.g503.com/viewtopic.php?t=325086 basically AB, AC are for turbo trucks, BA, BB are for non turbo. All that changes are the shift points

Where did you acquire the truck from, and have you tried operating the switch to see what happens? That looks like a good place for a security switch to interrupt the starting circuit.

What model/age is the truck, and any chance you have LED lights installed in the flasher positions? Any other history about the truck such as where you acquired it and if you've done anything to it might also be helpful.

I've been able to go from the driver's side and press down hard on the serpentine belt at the idler pulley on that side where the belt runs underneath, and that was enough force to slip the belt off from under that idler. The belt then had enough slack to take off from the other top idler then...

Here is a link to the manufacturer's troubleshooting chart for the 200 amp system. 95%+ of the time when output is wrong, it's the regulator, but still a good idea to follow the test procedures. https://www.ceniehoff.com/Documents/Ctrl_Hyperlink/TG17_uid252021123202.pdf

I'm sure it's possible to convert with enough time/skills/money, but it's not engineered for it from the factory, so would add some complexity.

https://www.steelsoldiers.com/threads/rear-fender-condenser-to-red-dot-install-thread.195910/page-4 part numbers for both fans, and an additional fan assemlby with 10" blades that has the same motor. None of them show up in ebay, but I know a couple years back I purchased one of each of the 3...

the dreaded part was sarcasm, as many people seem to dislike the idea of having to read and finding what they need to know from a manual, when they think it is easier to just ask questions (the same ones that get asked over and over, taking up a lot of forum pages)

Fan should be either all or nothing. Comes on, cools engine, turns off. The newer fans (A2 variant or newer) are redesigned to be quieter than A0/A1 trucks, so if it's just the sound you're basing the "partial engagement" on, I wouldn't worry. Sounds like your old cooling system just wasn't...

When I'm doing it, I usually bring the RPMS up a bit, then loosen up a little on the brakes. As long as you have light pressure on the brakes, it should stay locked up. You're doing more modulating of the brakes than you are the throttle most of the time. You do have to keep light pressure or...

When I did my fronts, I used a large impact driver to spin it while gently tapping on it to get it started, so I wasn't fighting against the friction so much. Once it got far enough, I used the new bolt from the other side to drive it through.

If there is fuel in the tank, but none getting to the filter, either the check valves in the fuel line just in front of the tank are plugged, or the fuel pump is failed. It could possibly also be an air leak somewhere in the system before the fuel pump, so check over the fuel lines and make sure...

I just double checked, and looks like all the ones posted here are all assembled the same way and according to the markings, so we could make a pretty long cable if we were all in the same place :)