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In another thread about flexplates it was posted that Saturn Surplus has OEM flexplates for $25. Saturn Surplus --> Saturn Surplus on the Web! Later, Joe

Should being the operative word. If Murphy pays a visit, it can get expensive in a hurry. It's 4 bolts under the truck to yank the rear driveshaft which I don't find a particularly difficult job. Later, Joe

OD Iron has some, there are also other military vehicle suppliers who occasionally have them. You might be able to get them from GM (Part# 1105500) but I don't know for sure. A good alternator shop should be able to rebuild them no problem, it's just that most don't understand the purpose of...

Looks good. [thumbzup] I need to shoot my 1008 so it's not white anymore. What kind of gun did you shoot it with? Later, Joe

He said he replaced the modulator, vacuum lines and the pump in his OP but I agree, check those things first before dumping ~$100 on a valve. Also, forgot to mention that you should check to make sure the lines are hooked up properly at the VRV, the lower line is the one that goes to the pump...

Sounds like the voltage regulator in the driver's side alternator is faulty and is breaking down, causing an intermittent high voltage condition. I'd definitely have it checked out again to figure it out before it fails completely and burns something out. Later, Joe

Sounds like your Vacuum Regulator Valve is not adjusted properly or is not working. It's on the passenger's side of the injection pump. To test, put a vacuum source on the lower port of the VRV and a gauge on the upper. With the throttle open to nearly WOT you should have 8 in/hg at the upper...

I would pull the main wire off the diamond shaped block and ohm it out. It is probably going to come out to something insanely high indicating a blown fusible link. The fusible link should be replaced with a high amp, slow blow fuse to prevent it from blowing during brief high amp situations if...

Of course, that only works once. Oh, and make sure the back window is down when you attempt this or it'll die too. Actually had that happen on a Bronco I was moving for a friend. He neglected to tell me that the top wasn't bolted down when we put it on the trailer. We lost it (and the back...

Ok, that's a good start. We can eliminate S2 and TB1 from the problem list. I am working on FO-1 Sheet 4 and 3. 4 has the switch and everything to J1, then it switches to Sheet 3 for P1 On the path of electrical flow, you have J1 which is the large cannon plug on the back of the control panel...

You have to get an adapter for an 84 or older Chevy... GM Defense did not update the CUCV's wiring with the 85 and later updates for parts compatibility purposes. Other option is to purchase some flat 4 weatherpack connectors and make your own T adapter. Match the colors from the wiring...

Yes, both black relays under the dash are the same. The theory of operation for 24V is just like the batteries themselves. If the alternators are wired in parallel (Pos to Pos, Neg to Neg) you get 12V with twice the capacity. If the alternators are wired in series, (Pos to Neg) the system adds...

I'm sure you could do it, but at 8 lbs per gal, you're looking at 4800 lbs on a trailer rated for 3K. Even if you strip off the bed, you're only gaining a couple of hundred pounds, leaving you at least 800 lbs over capacity. This is why the M149 trailers are only 400 Gal. The M200 generator...

Between 100 and 150 pounds. Two people can manage it, but three or four make it much easier. Don't forget the bolts under the lip in the back and to put the bolts back for the tire carrier. Later, Joe

I was afraid that was going to happen... Just go to the parts store and get one for a 1985 K30 with a 6.2 and Auto. GM part number 14077157 Later, Joe

Ok, A is the power side of that circuit, so we need to follow that wire back until we get to the problem. It should have power anytime that S2 is in RUN and the CB1 DC breaker is closed. *ALL TESTS ARE DONE WITH THE CB1 BREAKER CLOSED AND S2 IN RUN* Find Terminal Board 101, screw 11 (Wire P45J...

Well, if the brake lights and 4 ways are working, then the circuit to the rear is fine. I'd replace the flasher unit (the little can on the fuse box) to solve the flasher problem. There are two flasher cans, one is for the hazards and one is for the turn signals. On the rear marker lights, that...

Yea, I just got home and saw this... if all of those systems are out it's probably fuse 15 or the fuse holder for fuse 15. BTW, common in electrical terms doesn't always mean 'standard'. Common means that several components share a circuit (they have this power or ground in common). When you...

I'm assuming you have checked the bulb to make sure it's not blown? The GP light gets its power directly from the pink/black wire which is a common power supply wire when the ignition is in the RUN position and powers many different circuits. The ground for the light runs to the glow plug...

If you are asking if there are any circuit boards that are essential to the vehicle functioning, there aren't any. In an emergency, you can run a ground wire to a momentary toggle switch to bypass the glow plug circuit. Later, Joe