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I did. We were discussing Gasser trucks of the late 1940’s and early 1950’s. I have two REO M35 trucks and an AM General truck. I know others made them.

M34 and M35 were REO products. Totally different from the GM M135 and M211. I don’t think there are any common parts outside of the light switch and wire ends.

Drivers side is ALT 1 and charges the front battery. Passenger side is ALT 2 and charges the rear battery.

The CUCV is wired so the rear battery negative is connected to the positive of the front battery. If you look at the terminal the big wire goes to the front battery and the small red wire goes over to the diamond shaped Buss bar next to the glow plug relay. that is the 12 volt positive supply...

The negative of the rear battery is the positive of the front battery. I think you are correct that the isolated ground lug of ALT 1 is no longer isolated.

I put civilian ones in two of my trucks. Get the front and rear brackets that go with them. Then they fit and work perfect.

I had a Stanadyne guy tell me 5-8 year lifespan. that was 12 years ago. 2 of my 6.2 trucks are still on the the IP I acquired them with at least 10 years ago. Another engine is 11 years on a rebuild with no issues. Of course, the guy that makes money rebuilding them is going to say 5-8 years...

I have the same leak in one of mine.

Thanks Keith. I do have that manual but either never made it to section D or lost my mental image of it.

Serpentine belt or V belts? That is the difference in the water pump designs. Each has its own backing plate that will not work on the other pump. If you got a pump to bolt to your backing plate and block, then it is the same as what was there before. Unless you swapped backing plates as well...

What manual is that? I don’t think I have seen that passage before.

Looks good.

Bypassing that might help some. What worked best for me was cleaning the contacts on the diamond shaped Buss bar above the glow plug relay.

I picked up a M101A2 in OKC years ago and had the same thought process. Trailer or pull? I wanted to pull. So, I removed the hubs, bearings, brakes and wheels from another M101 and brought them all with me. Then swapped them over so I knew all the parts were ready to go. Good thing I had...

Since the belt is missing from the passenger side alternator and the front battery negative cable seems to be going to the firewall Buss bar. I have to ask if your truck has been converted to 12 volts? If so, search for the Roscommon conversion to see how things are supposed to be wired. If...

Off Road Design might be your best place to look for things that actually work on these trucks.

One of the 1965 M35 manuals listed out about 30 symptoms or behaviors and said to load the truck to max gross weight and drive for 100 miles at max speed. Then see if the problem still existed. That is probably the best advice for driving a diesel vehicle I have ever read. Glad yours is better.

Batteries are always good.

The crank handle from LMC is just the shell. There are a number of pieces that have to get moved over if I remember correctly. I haven't done mine in a few years. The less I drive it, the less the back window crank breaks.

Do you have a test light or volt meter? Since the tail light and brake light share an 1157 bulb housing. You can remove the bulb and check for voltage on the two leads at the bottom of the socket. If you have voltage there, then ground is still your issue. No voltage, then you get to do what...