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2500 rpm at the drive shaft is about all most NP200 transfer cases can stand without overheating. 4th gear in the T98 is 1:1 so 2500 engine rpm will get you 48 mph with stock 9.00-16 tires. The 11.00-16 Michelin’s make 2500 rpm 52 mph. Basically, you will get the same road speed as the bigger...

The return lines could be removed and the engine will run just fine. It will make a huge mess though. Putting a clear hose for the top of the IP return will let you watch for air bubbles to verify air is getting into the IP fuel supply. But, since you are running dry you already know that...

You know what happens when you assume? I did that to myself. I assumed the crew cab dually in your avatar was a Chevy. Sorry.

This is going to read as condescending. I don’t mean it that way. I just don’t know how to write it polite. How do you know the rpm is increasing when at operating temperature? Feel, sound or actual tachometer? If it really is increasing, then independent of a binding accessory such as a...

Does it speed up just a hair and smooth right immediately before it dies? That is a classic symptom of running the IP dry of fuel. His is your fuel filter, how much fuel in the tank, what shape are your fuel hoses in? This is a video I did about how to prime and start a dry IP. I let the...

Here is another one describing the ways of checking the timing in more detail:

Why, I just happen to have a video about that:

Any idea what your IP timing is? Or, are the hash marks lined up or even close?

It kind of reads to me like you have an air leak somewhere in the fuel system. Here is a video I made about intentionally running a 6.2 dry and then priming. It reads like yours is running about as long as mine did with no fuel:

Replacing the fuse block means pretty much every wire inside the truck has to be removed and then installed again. I have done it. If you are going to do that, upgrade to a Painless 18 circuit or something similar is my opinion. The 12/24 volt stuff can be made to work. However, you can also...

13G is what the system is designed for and work very, very well. They also can be swapped in with zero modifications. 60G plugs are self regulating. That means they heat up a little slower, but in theory will never, ever glow so long and hot that they swell or explode. If you have an override...

I agree. The 6.2 glow plugs are so easy to change and test in place. Get 8 that work and worry about something else until they don’t. Have 8 on the shelf that are known good is also a good idea.

Nor I. My ‘51 and ‘53 are both 24 volt.

My finger in the video? Yes, I thought I said that in the video.

With your Ohm meter, check your glow plugs. Here is a video about how to do it:

Any internal engine temperature below 159° is considered cold and glow plugs should be used.

Air filter, fuel filter, battery strength and starter condition. Plus the already mentioned glow plugs.

I went out and did a 3 minute video of under the hood:

I will try and get some pictures as well.

Mine still rattle and works just fine as well.