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AG kits has it for $75 Or google it! Don't limit yourself to "MEP-005" try searching by engine application if you haven't already. "White 298"

I would try exercising the AC select switch. I think you have some dirty contacts inside. I know you initially had a problem with the switch being stuck in 1 position. I'd also try spraying some Deoxit contact cleaner into the switch through the small gaps where the terminals come out of the...

So all other 24V items on your control panel have power, correct? And you get power out when you turn the switch to crank? Do you hear the starter solenoid hidden behind the rear wall of the control panel click when you attempt to crank? Do you see or hear the starter relay in the control panel...

I tend to shoot for 1800-1900 PSI. You'll probably find that depending on the discrimination of your gage as well as differences in how fast you apply the pressure, you will get a little variation in pop pressure every time you test it, so I don't bother trying to get super accurate. Just get it...

Well, I had previously started typing you a message telling you to not worry about the SR 8515 spacer, but since you were looking at buying the kit, it comes in the Ambac rebuild kit, so I deleted that sentence! However, it is not necessary at all. It just helps hold the delivery valve in place...

You don't need that gear retainer. just the plunger guide and the seal kit. You can also buy the seals a lot cheaper if you locate individually, but the kit is easier. Other than that there's nothing else needed.

Not your fault.... I was thinking it would show up as a problem with timing, but I guess not. Usually when I see a machine displaying your symptoms I just take the pump out and open it up. That may be the only sure fire way to know. I've seen it so often lately it's just 2nd nature to pull the...

Yes, that sounds correct. You should have fuel flowing, then it will suddenly stop right at the PC mark. I don't recall how far you have to turn the engine before fuel flow comes back, but it's not very far. The time when you have no fuel flowing from the pump is the time when it would be...

Yes, PC should line up slightly before TDC on cyl #1 compression stroke, shortly after the intake valve closes, but that stuff is mainly irrelevant for your situation because that is all mechanical connections between the cam and crank. It has nothing to do with the timing of the IP's fuel...

Both Airtex pumps will work and are identical in form/fit. Just 1 is a slightly higher pressure than the other if I recall. The fittings out of the Facet Cube will fit into the Airtex pump, just keep an eye on flow direction and all will work out good. You have to cut the plug off the old pump...

If the pintles pulled out easily you are 99% there already. Just clean off the tips of the pintles and get down inside the nozzle with some Berryman's B12 carb clean, or soak them for a day. Then get in there with a kids art paint brush or similar to scrub the opening a bit. Reassemble...

Yes, Don't run it too long in that condition. You will overheat the injectors and they will eventually start to stick if you get them too hot.

Humm.... SX460 on an 004/005 Eh? I've never tried it on that size machine, only the 3Kw machines, but I thought I read here on SS that the SX460 could not be used on those machines? Don't recall the exact reason, but think maybe it couldn't supply enough current possibly?? I remember RustyStud...

What does the primary fuel pump mounted to the left of the radiator look like? Is it a square body or round? If cleaning your switches etc. doesn't solve the problem, I'd suspect the pump itself. If it's a square body Facet pump I would either replace it now, or at least buy a replacement to...

If I recall correctly the transducer is the same as on an 002/003 and the signal coming out is not a voltage signal you're looking for. I think on that machine it's a mA DC signal. If you look on the face of the Hz gage on the right side, see if you see anything that says FS xx DC mA or anything...

This is probably the key indicator to your issue! And @jamawieb has already picked up on it... If your valve cover is getting abnormally hot within like 5 -10 minutes of running with no load, my bet is that your plunger guide in your IP has skipped 90* and your pump timing is now way off...

Too bad it doesn't say right on the face ( like most others do ) what the full gage swing power required is. Most MEP gages say if they are say 1A DC Full swing, or .5A AC , or whatever, depending on the application, that makes mixing and matching a no-brainer. In this case, that particular gage...

Take a look inside the control panel at the terminal block on the back wall. The 24V comes in from the stud on the starter and branches off to a couple different spots on the terminal block. You may have a bad connection at one of those spots. It's pretty easy to follow the 24V through the box...

On the IP, you may have reasembled it with the plunger 180* from the alignment marks. I worked on a 701 years ago ( same engine ) where the governor was acting all kinds of wacky and the thing would not run right... revving up, running away! Turned out the IP had been gummed up and the owner...

I don't think you need 28V for field flashing. Some folks use a 9V battery so I'd recommend staying in the 12V and under range first.