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Yep, classic leak. Give a shot of air to open the valves then it dumps tire air trying to match the system pressure drop caused by the leak. Thats the same way the system deflates. They connect the system to a 6.5PSI relief valve(leak) that drops the truck side of the system down to around...

I think probaby the biggest issue we have is spinning the shafts way into the red zone. Longitudinal vibration is a characteristic of transitioning from one angle to another in a different plane with 4-point u-joints. The steeper the angle the worse it gets, hence the rpm vs angle limit chart...

Cool 2 batts is a good thing as it does not overload the puny 50/50 alts they chose to put in these things... Other than the computer interface on the A1/A1R trucks, the STE they chose for these vehicles does not appear to be al that useful, and most any competent tech will quickly outgrow...

Boost is usually dependent on load. Do a torque converter stall test. Second gear, stand on the brakes and add throttle. It should top out at the converter stall point ~ peak torque and full engine load. You don’t hold these too long as it really warms up the transmission fluid:) that should...

What were the conditions of that boost pressure video? Were you driving or in gear?

Yea the 2-3 shift is brutal in an empty truck. Getting rid of the 2:1 hubs also calms it down.

how much weight you got in it? any codes stored(press both arrows to enter diag mode use mode button to step thru the 5 memory locations). 3rd is where lockup is engaged, and with the 2:1 hubs, the trans has a real mechanical advantage so it satisfies lockup requirements almost immediately/in...

OK, so it is an A1 without the disconnect switches to the rear of the battery box? Green circuit card power panel in the pax dash? Not counting NATO plug wires, you probably have 4 large battery cables. Ground, 12 and 24v and a 24v line to the starter solenoid. Use an ohm meter and a long...

yea, unless you need to work on the latch:)

On my 1079 chassis, the tubular crossmember in the main frame looks to be far enough to the rear to clear the P6 clutch housing. At any rate, 8 Huck bolts and a hydraulic jack to spread the frame a hare and it could be slid to the rear.. It is the welded in Channel in the upper frame rail...

AKA: SAE or BSPP(british standard pipe parallel) type fittings that use a sealing Oring or sealing washer. There is usually a little step or bevel cut around the hole to contain the seal…

Yep, both pumps are in parallel. I did a system pressure test video and disconnected the output line on the hand pump and connected it to a pressure gauge. This showed me system pressure generated by the AOP while raising the cab and spare tire. thats why I suggested your hydraulic issues...

Or not. Don’t need a computer to troubleshoot mine if it has an issue:)

Wonder if it is supposed to have some sort of plug/cap that perhaps holds the electrical circuit in a particular state, like the data bus end resistors? Or perhaps something shorted it?

Well anything in the manifold after the turbo would be altered/boosted. If this is sensing barometric pressure as a reference, it could be just about anywhere:) This diagram says it is forward and inboard of the boost sensor… looking at the diagrams it says that sensor is optional/only used...

The A0 has no data bus to tap into for information… the only two electronic boxes onboard are the TCU and the CTIS and they are not wired together. Only a maintenance connector for the trans controller…

Baro and not boost, is it pre-turbo?

Is k26 energizing With ign on? Thats the neutral start relay controlled by the trans. K26 powers K11, K11 when energized sends power to the start switches to allow engine crank using those switches as they feed the aux start relay on the frame… trans trouble may indicate something in the...

You only get air out the rear when you turn on the trailer air control AND the park air control in the dash...

right front might be a sticking wheel valve refusing to seal. the right line goes from the dump valve thru the hub to the banjo fitting on the wheel stud. then thru a hose to the wheel valve. unscrew the banjo bolt on that wheel and confirm that it is indeed a banjo bolt and not a solid...