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When you pull the pump, take the button and spring retainer off the bottom of the pump, then you can see the plunger guide. You'll be able to see if the guide is broken or not.

Could have broken the plunger guide inside the pump. Its made of a very thin metal and if the plunger gets varnish built up, it could have caused friction, which caused it to jam. How many hours are on your unit and how old is the fuel in the tank?

You can get them from AMBAC but they are about $30 a piece. I've put several together without the spacers because they were destroyed and they ran fine. Then I've put some together that needed the spacers to run correctly.

If you're more worried about wet stacking, I would build a load bank and hook it up occasionally. Then you would burn the excess fuel out of the cylinders and exhaust when needed. Save some money. Unless you're like me and just would like to have it, just because. :-D

Make sure you get CVT1 not CT1. CT1 is towards the outside that you can see. CVT1 and CT1 are mounted together and CT1 part number is 72-5176 and CVT1 is 72-5177. CVT1's are difficult to find, it took me about a month of searching before I found one about 6 months ago.

Don't worry to much about the crack in the CVT1 because most are cracked due to age and vibration. The windings inside are protected by what's behind the plastic, its incredibly hard material. Also, to test CVT1 correctly you need to take the leads off. 99% of the time I've experience high...

Great job!!! So what did you do to fix it??? Merry Christmas!

Before you take the front apart, you may want to try and bend the rack back up with your fingers. If you know which pump bent it, then reach your fingers through the port on the motor and lift up with a lot of force. I bent the rack on one of my first 802a's and I did what I explained. It worked...

I agree with Triple Jim, sounds like it's working correctly. Just run it for a while and make sure the regulator shuts the charge off around 28 volts. I've had a couple of units that would continue to charge and voltage would hit 32 volts before I caught it. Did you take the fuel take off and...

It looks like you understand how everything works now so your getting the pumps into the rack. When you put the pumps in, do they fall all the way in, where they are flush with the block? Or do you have to put the hold downs on, to push them down? If the cam lube is at the highest point, it will...

Try a small mirror and look down into the hole where the injector pump goes so you can see how the rack moves. You have to move the shut off solenoid by hand to the right place so that the rack will be in the right position for the removal or install of the pumps. After I saw how the rack moved...

To make sure you picked the right button. (Flow rate test) 1st get the flywheel to the PC mark on the combustion stroke of cylinder 1 2nd take the injector line off number 1 cylinder 3rd take the delivery valve spring out of the injector pump 4th rotate the motor (by hand) counter clockwise just...

I would say timing of the injector pump. I've actually had units that came straight from the military with the wrong timing buttons and smoke like a freight train. The smoke will usually smell like raw fuel and burn your eyes pretty good. With the timing of the pump. Did you test the flow rate...

More than likely the injectors. If you notice it struggling a little with 1500w, put some more load on it and see if it can handle it. If the hertz's drop more than 3hertz with 100+ percent load on the meter, I get the injectors popped tested by Storeman. Fixing the injectors usually solves the...

I agree with Triple Jim, way to much load for the 002a.

Yes, I've actually bypassed the breaker by hooking the main wires together on the back of the breaker. Then I put an ordinary 50 amp house breaker inline of my load. It has worked well thus far but would not recommend this to anyone because I have a lot of experience with these generators and...

They are quieter and more fuel efficient than the 802a's but only a limited number have hit the market so far. I've only seen 2 come up for sale in the last 2 years and prices reached $5,000+. It's just like when the 802a's starting hitting the market, when they were new, prices were crazy high...

On the schematics it will show which pins are activated at each position (preheat,prime/run,start, etc). First make sure all the wires are hooked up properly and then you can turn the knob in each position, testing for 24volts in each pin that should be hot. I would beat that the switch has failed.

I just finished working on a 803a that would start perfect and run about 3 minutes, then start missing, with it finally stalling. I couldn't restart for at least 1 hour. I thought it was the fuel pump so I replaced that, still had the same issue. I took the fuel line off at the fuel pump coming...

Yes, then you are correct. That is where it is suppose to go.