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So where exactly did you connect the air to?

You have leaks, fix them. Speed of fill makes no difference. You just couldn't hear them over the engine before:) did you add air thru the front red glad-hand? If so, be careful, that also releases the park brakes, so chock the wheels…

Well they roar down the highway at 2600 engine RPM and 3300 driveshaft RPM, things get vibrated…

Yes, TS and hazards use the same flasher module so it would disable both. That is one of the TS steps, hazards bypass the signal sw, so cna help determine if it is a flsher or a signal switch issue. my flasher module was bad on my truck, and I have seen quite a few bad ones. It is easy enough...

I would say if you have time, put in the eco-hubs now while you are doing the hub service. Save the engine running at max governed at highway speed the whole way back to AK...

Or a serial number. It will start with a 7AG, followed by 5 digits…

Yea as far as engine swaps go, I think a c7 in place of a 3126 would be way toward the easier side of the difficulty meter. now a C7 in place of a 3116 sounds a little more for the advanced class, but I think it would be doable, and may be something I may contemplate at some point if the need...

Overall, but it could be that one particular item has become sloppy and is causing the clunk... I would also look at axle bushing runout adjacent to the axle u-joints at the spindles and ends of the axle housing. slop here could cause the axle to start smacking its housings, but it would...

How is your overall backlash in the front? With the center diff locked out in mode, it is unable to compensate for the different arc/circles traveled by the wheels front to rear. With a locker in the rear it may be loading/unloading the driveshaft as it is dealing with different arc/turn...

I'd look for a crate C7, and have a plan for that installation. But continue to run the 3126 until it quits without doing any major updates beyond possibly the oil pump and basic maintenance...

Saw a M1088 that a local agency had acquired that had 89PSI stenciled above every wheel-well...

Yep, these things are pretty nose heavy when empty. you need to run different tire pressures with different axle weights to balance out the tire wear. 55PSI is considered an Offroad/Cross-country tire pressure in the Goodyear MVT documentation…

Mmmm high idle… Hey wait, i have a cruise control hand lever:)

Ears OK, unless you are looking for a specific number, like say when using a PTO, or determining TC stall…

Yep, its right there on PX26 pin 1 and 4. Pin 4 is referenced to ground(tb2) at the truck side of that plug.

I am not putting mine back in:) there is another small module down there, called a “frequency divider” that you can also pull. Small box with about 5 colored leads into a multi pin connector. Its actually an isolation amplifier that allows the magnetic pickup RPM sensor to feed more than one...

Yea thats just the emissions compliance sticker. There should be a smaller sticker below that(front left corner of the valve cover) that has the serial number. It appears to be missing on yours and would be under the shadow of the hand holding the cellphone in the first pic… Mine has that same...

Oh, does the shimmy change if you apply the brakes?

What is the frequency of the shimmy? Big tires turn relatively slowly, about 6 revolutions per second(HZ) at highway speed. I would expect a tire to oscillate about 3HZ at 30MPH... A DS would be 7.8X that... My limit for counting reliably is about 12HZ, so even at 30MPH a DS would be too fast...

I have looked into National. You are correct, national does make hundreds of variations, unfortunately one WITHOUT several inches of suspension under it, is not one of them, No room for that in a LMTV cab, so you are right again, nothing to see here, move along…