I might be a little crazy – 4,000 mile M1079 recovery Illinois to Alaska

[AKPacker]

Hi All,

I've been considering a MV for many years now, I originally joined this forum way back in 2011 when I nearly bought a surplus M35A3 at auction. Back in March I finally pulled the trigger on a cherry 2008 M1079A1R in Illinois with plans to drive it home to Alaska in June. I've started this thread to document the work I'll do to the truck and the journey back home.

Here’s the truck:











I flew down to test drive and inspect it before purchase, and aside from a hastily applied black paint job, it is basically a nearly new, unaltered truck with only 1000 miles on the odo. It was owned by a fire department after Uncle Sam, so even though they didn't put many miles on it they'd regularly start it up to circulate the fluids and keep the batteries charged. The inspection turned up a few minor issues outlined below that I’ll need to sort out before hitting the road.

I plan to do the following upgrades before leaving Illinois:

• Install Ecohubs
• Install new 14.00R20 tires with balance beads
• Install 3-piece run flat inserts on the front tires
• Add sound insulation to the cab (its LOUD in there and my wife and daughter plan to join me for part of the trip)
• Install LED headlights
• Upgrade the seats & install suspension seat bases (no air ride cab on the A1R)
• Install an Arduino CTIS controller from Plasa
• Install a backup camera
• Security updates:
  • Keyed ignition
  • Door keys
  • Install a puck lock on the box door
  • Install padlocks on the battery & tool boxes
  • Add a locking gas cap

Basic Maintenance to be performed before the start of the trip:

• Replace engine oil & filter
• Replace fuel filter
• Replace hub & rear diff oil
• Hit all the grease points
• Replace the air dryer desiccant cartridge
• What am I missing?

Undecided/possible upgrades:

• IFS HEUI pump prefilter kit – is this a necessity for the C7?
• Change transmission fluid to ATF – is this worth doing before the trip?

Known Issues:

• CTIS controller not functioning – hopefully solved with the new Arduino CTIS controller
• Turn signals/hazard lights not working – hopefully just a bad relay, I’m bringing spares
• 17-year-old original tires – will be replaced with 14.00R20s with 2020/21 date codes
• Spare tire strap frayed – bought a new strap to install

Spares/tools:

• Spare 12V & 24V relays, circuit breakers
• Serpentine belt
• Milwaukee 18V impact gun & sockets (is the ½” drive gun strong enough for the lug nuts?)
• Full set of wrenches
• Torque wrench
• Breaker bars
• Torque multiplier for lug nuts
• U-joint puller
• Spare U-joint
• Bottle jacks (military 8 & 12 ton jacks came with the truck)
• Gladhand air hose with chuck
• Multimeter
• Electrical tape & silicone tape
• Grease gun
• Jumper cables
• Anything major I’m missing?

The trip:

• Illinois – Iowa – South Dakota – Wyoming – Montana – Alberta – BC – Yukon – Alaska! We've planned for ~12 days of driving.

I'll be flying back to Illinois the first week of June to begin the fun, wish me luck!

 

[BKubu]

It sounds like you have a solid plan for recovery.

I have a question on your tire choice. Why switch to 1400s (aside from road speed)? Most guys are switching FROM 1400s on their trucks, admittedly mostly on M939 series trucks due to the cost and scarcity of fresh 1400s. The stock tires on the FMTVs are plentiful and fairly cheap (Wes Simpson on this list has loads of them). I bet you could sell your 1400s, buy the stock tires, and come out with money left over.

I think I'd ask the seller to fix the signals at the least. You may fly out and not be able to fix them.

Good luck with your trip.

 

[MarkM]

You have more than your fair share of testicular fortitude for such an ambitious journey with an untested military truck. In my mind it would fall under the proposal of a friend that tells you "I'm taking up wing suit flying, what do you think?" In any event, I salute you Sir.

Mark

 

[Keith Knight]

Jack stands, I welded a flat plat to the bottom for soft surfaces. Also wood blocks I keep 1.5”x 11.25”x 11.25” blocks multiples. Typically with a flat tire the bottle jack doesn’t have enough stroke to get the tire off the ground and you have to put a jack stand under it then block the jack up and repeat. Also jack stand for safety reasons.
Also my blinkers didn’t work and required a new flasher module.
My 1/2 M18 Milwaukee impact the one with 1,400lbs works amazingly well.
You might want a 1/4” impact for panel screws
and small items.

I use a harbor freight 20 ton pneumatic bottle jack, way easier.
Electrical but connectors and wire.
Water fuel separator filter.

Where did you find the 3 piece run flats? I’m considering putting the in all mine. That way when I do tire rotations on the road I don’t have to worry about switching them around.
Can’t comment on the transmission fluid the military sold mine with all the fluids drained and I started with ATF and have never had a problem.
Looks like a great truck, patience and stop and do visual inspections often in the beginning.
Look forward to watching your build.

 

[GeneralDisorder]

Right on! I'm glad a member scored that one! Saw it on Facebook and advised the seller on condition and value, etc. looks like a score. Myself and @Third From Texas have that exact same truck. So you will make three on this forum! It's a select club. What's your truck serial number? Mine and @Third From Texas were built just months apart and from what we can tell are identical except his truck has a fiberglass skid plate and mine is steel - looks like your is steel like mine which is (heavy but STRONG). We should start a private message between the three of us since we are probably the members most familiar with these trucks.

I'll look over your lists and think about the issues I've had and jot down some thoughts.

For starters - track down a spare air compressor cylinder head and have it rebuilt and ready to go. My truck had 2,750 miles on it (over 18,000 now - daily driven), and 2600 miles into my 2700 mile drive home the compressor lost an exhaust valve and later punctured a piston. I barely got home with it. The exhaust valve springs on Haldex FMTV compressors seems to be a weak item. Mine isn't the only one I've found or seen failed. I carry a rebuilt head onboard for a spare - it's a small thing to carry and only about an hour to change it out. Air is very useful for these trucks.

Also with ECO hubs the cab is a LOT quieter so don't spend much time on sound deadening before your drive home. Spend the time on stuff that could strand you and worry about comfort later. Seats aren't that bad actually and you don't need air ride - if you are tall watch out for seat height. The stock suspension seats are actually quite ok - you'll have more cramps in your right foot and you'll be wishing for cruise control not air ride. LoL. I run the Mastercraft Defense A1P2 seats which are suspension like the A1R seats. Focus on bolstering and low profile and don't worry about the ride quality - it will be fine.

If you want to alter your course and swing over through Oregon you could stop at my shop in Portland before you leave the lower 48 and look things over with myself and my local FMTV friends and advise accordingly. Up to you!

My truck:

 

[serpico760]

Hi All,

I've been considering a MV for many years now, I originally joined this forum way back in 2011 when I nearly bought a surplus M35A3 at auction. Back in March I finally pulled the trigger on a cherry 2008 M1079A1R in Illinois with plans to drive it home to Alaska in June. I've started this thread to document the work I'll do to the truck and the journey back home.

Here’s the truck:
View attachment 924036

View attachment 924031

View attachment 924033

View attachment 924034

View attachment 924035


I flew down to test drive and inspect it before purchase, and aside from a hastily applied black paint job, it is basically a nearly new, unaltered truck with only 1000 miles on the odo. It was owned by a fire department after Uncle Sam, so even though they didn't put many miles on it they'd regularly start it up to circulate the fluids and keep the batteries charged. The inspection turned up a few minor issues outlined below that I’ll need to sort out before hitting the road.

I plan to do the following upgrades before leaving Illinois:

• Install Ecohubs
• Install new 14.00R20 tires with balance beads
• Install 3-piece run flat inserts on the front tires
• Add sound insulation to the cab (its LOUD in there and my wife and daughter plan to join me for part of the trip)
• Install LED headlights
• Upgrade the seats & install suspension seat bases (no air ride cab on the A1R)
• Install an Arduino CTIS controller from Plasa
• Install a backup camera
• Security updates:
  • Keyed ignition
  • Door keys
  • Install a puck lock on the box door
  • Install padlocks on the battery & tool boxes
  • Add a locking gas cap

Basic Maintenance to be performed before the start of the trip:

• Replace engine oil & filter
• Replace fuel filter
• Replace hub & rear diff oil
• Hit all the grease points
• Replace the air dryer desiccant cartridge
• What am I missing?

Undecided/possible upgrades:

• IFS HEUI pump prefilter kit – is this a necessity for the C7?
• Change transmission fluid to ATF – is this worth doing before the trip?

Known Issues:

• CTIS controller not functioning – hopefully solved with the new Arduino CTIS controller
• Turn signals/hazard lights not working – hopefully just a bad relay, I’m bringing spares
• 17-year-old original tires – will be replaced with 14.00R20s with 2020/21 date codes
• Spare tire strap frayed – bought a new strap to install

Spares/tools:

• Spare 12V & 24V relays, circuit breakers
• Serpentine belt
• Milwaukee 18V impact gun & sockets (is the ½” drive gun strong enough for the lug nuts?)
• Full set of wrenches
• Torque wrench
• Breaker bars
• Torque multiplier for lug nuts
• U-joint puller
• Spare U-joint
• Bottle jacks (military 8 & 12 ton jacks came with the truck)
• Gladhand air hose with chuck
• Multimeter
• Electrical tape & silicone tape
• Grease gun
• Jumper cables
• Anything major I’m missing?

The trip:

• Illinois – Iowa – South Dakota – Wyoming – Montana – Alberta – BC – Yukon – Alaska! We've planned for ~12 days of driving.

View attachment 924032

I'll be flying back to Illinois the first week of June to begin the fun, wish me luck!

I've bought tires a few times from Feltz, good service and good condition newer tires at a good price, few hundred each. Bostrom does make a low pro air ride seat that will fit that.
3/4 in under hood insulation in the dog house, and sound deadening mat and lots of insulation in the ceiling for heat isn't too difficult to install.

 

[GeneralDisorder]

3/4 in under hood insulation in the dog house, and sound deadening mat and lots of insulation in the ceiling for heat isn't too difficult to install.

A1R's like this already have headliners (even on the turret cover), sprayed on insulation in the cab interior walls, and insulation under the dog-house. As I said they don't really need much help in these areas - not as much as older trucks. It's not where my focus would be for a drive home.

 

[serpico760]

A1R's like this already have headliners (even on the turret cover), sprayed on insulation in the cab interior walls, and insulation under the dog-house. As I said they don't really need much help in these areas - not as much as older trucks. It's not where my focus would be for a drive home.

Well that's cool wish I would have found one of those originally didn't know about those upgrades

 

[Ronmar]

I would say if you have time, put in the eco-hubs now while you are doing the hub service. Save the engine running at max governed at highway speed the whole way back to AK...

 

[GeneralDisorder]

I would say if you have time, put in the eco-hubs now while you are doing the hub service. Save the engine running at max governed at highway speed the whole way back to AK...

Absolutely do the ECO hubs before driving home. That would be on the very top of my list. 3 extra MPG and engine, transmission, and driveshaft longevity.

 

[GeneralDisorder]

Couple of items:

Buy all of the transducers from CAT - oil pressure, atmospheric pressure, and boost pressure. Both my oil and boost transducers failed - oil pressure messes with the gauge and idiot light - boost pressure transducer failure puts you in limp mode and the truck will struggle to do more than about 10-15 mph.

Get new thermostats from CAT and get a new radiator cap.

If you plan to try to get the CTIS working before you drive it home - get a rebuild kit for the PCU and rebuild kits for all of the wheel valves. I personally like the Dana CTIS controllers since they are environmentally sealed but to each their own.

Check out this thread where I detailed the injector harness rabbit-hole. I would pull the valve cover and check the wiring. If any are damaged I would do a field repair of those wire(s) and replace the harness later.

Updated C7 injector harness PSA

I replaced the ECM to engine wiring harness on my 2008 M1079 A1R due to multiple occurrences of connection issues with all three of the pressure sensors - the oil pressure, boost pressure, and atmospheric pressure sensors would throw codes and the boost pressure sensor in particular would put...

www.steelsoldiers.com

 

[AKPacker]

It sounds like you have a solid plan for recovery.

I have a question on your tire choice. Why switch to 1400s (aside from road speed)? Most guys are switching FROM 1400s on their trucks, admittedly mostly on M939 series trucks due to the cost and scarcity of fresh 1400s. The stock tires on the FMTVs are plentiful and fairly cheap (Wes Simpson on this list has loads of them). I bet you could sell your 1400s, buy the stock tires, and come out with money left over.

I think I'd ask the seller to fix the signals at the least. You may fly out and not be able to fix them.

Good luck with your trip.

Thanks, I went with the 14.00s mainly because they were the best/newest tires that I could find at a "reasonable" price at the time I needed to place the order. I tried several places for 395s including Feltz (great guys!), but all I could find were surplus takeoffs that were either older than I wanted (pre 2020), or the newer ones were priced nearly the same as the new never mounted 14.00s.

Basically I went with known new tires vs. previously mounted surplus tires with unknown history and possible flat spots.

These are the tires I ordered:

 

[Keith Knight]

Where did you find the 3 piece run flats?

 

[marchplumber]

Hi All,

I've been considering a MV for many years now, I originally joined this forum way back in 2011 when I nearly bought a surplus M35A3 at auction. Back in March I finally pulled the trigger on a cherry 2008 M1079A1R in Illinois with plans to drive it home to Alaska in June. I've started this thread to document the work I'll do to the truck and the journey back home.

Here’s the truck:
View attachment 924036

View attachment 924031

View attachment 924033

View attachment 924034

View attachment 924035


I flew down to test drive and inspect it before purchase, and aside from a hastily applied black paint job, it is basically a nearly new, unaltered truck with only 1000 miles on the odo. It was owned by a fire department after Uncle Sam, so even though they didn't put many miles on it they'd regularly start it up to circulate the fluids and keep the batteries charged. The inspection turned up a few minor issues outlined below that I’ll need to sort out before hitting the road.

I plan to do the following upgrades before leaving Illinois:

• Install Ecohubs
• Install new 14.00R20 tires with balance beads
• Install 3-piece run flat inserts on the front tires
• Add sound insulation to the cab (its LOUD in there and my wife and daughter plan to join me for part of the trip)
• Install LED headlights
• Upgrade the seats & install suspension seat bases (no air ride cab on the A1R)
• Install an Arduino CTIS controller from Plasa
• Install a backup camera
• Security updates:
  • Keyed ignition
  • Door keys
  • Install a puck lock on the box door
  • Install padlocks on the battery & tool boxes
  • Add a locking gas cap

Basic Maintenance to be performed before the start of the trip:

• Replace engine oil & filter
• Replace fuel filter
• Replace hub & rear diff oil
• Hit all the grease points
• Replace the air dryer desiccant cartridge
• What am I missing?

Undecided/possible upgrades:

• IFS HEUI pump prefilter kit – is this a necessity for the C7?
• Change transmission fluid to ATF – is this worth doing before the trip?

Known Issues:

• CTIS controller not functioning – hopefully solved with the new Arduino CTIS controller
• Turn signals/hazard lights not working – hopefully just a bad relay, I’m bringing spares
• 17-year-old original tires – will be replaced with 14.00R20s with 2020/21 date codes
• Spare tire strap frayed – bought a new strap to install

Spares/tools:

• Spare 12V & 24V relays, circuit breakers
• Serpentine belt
• Milwaukee 18V impact gun & sockets (is the ½” drive gun strong enough for the lug nuts?)
• Full set of wrenches
• Torque wrench
• Breaker bars
• Torque multiplier for lug nuts
• U-joint puller
• Spare U-joint
• Bottle jacks (military 8 & 12 ton jacks came with the truck)
• Gladhand air hose with chuck
• Multimeter
• Electrical tape & silicone tape
• Grease gun
• Jumper cables
• Anything major I’m missing?

The trip:

• Illinois – Iowa – South Dakota – Wyoming – Montana – Alberta – BC – Yukon – Alaska! We've planned for ~12 days of driving.

View attachment 924032

I'll be flying back to Illinois the first week of June to begin the fun, wish me luck!

What fire dept had that girl for sale? I'm in the Peoria area, but have NO experience with this style of truck. GOOD Luck and God IS with you!!!

 

[AKPacker]

Jack stands, I welded a flat plat to the bottom for soft surfaces. Also wood blocks I keep 1.5”x 11.25”x 11.25” blocks multiples. Typically with a flat tire the bottle jack doesn’t have enough stroke to get the tire off the ground and you have to put a jack stand under it then block the jack up and repeat. Also jack stand for safety reasons.
Also my blinkers didn’t work and required a new flasher module.
My 1/2 M18 Milwaukee impact the one with 1,400lbs works amazingly well.
You might want a 1/4” impact for panel screws
and small items.

I use a harbor freight 20 ton pneumatic bottle jack, way easier.
Electrical but connectors and wire.
Water fuel separator filter.

Where did you find the 3 piece run flats? I’m considering putting the in all mine. That way when I do tire rotations on the road I don’t have to worry about switching them around.
Can’t comment on the transmission fluid the military sold mine with all the fluids drained and I started with ATF and have never had a problem.
Looks like a great truck, patience and stop and do visual inspections often in the beginning.
Look forward to watching your build.

Thanks for the info, good to know the 1/2" gun is adequate for the lugs. The 3 piece run flats are from forum member MAdams, he only had 2 to sell so they're going on the steer axle. They are getting hard to find at non-scalper prices.

Is this the correct blinker module? If so I'll order one to have on hand.
https://www.eriksmilitarysurplus.com/tusiflcoun11.html

 

[Keith Knight]

That does look like the original blinker module.

 

[AKPacker]

Right on! I'm glad a member scored that one! Saw it on Facebook and advised the seller on condition and value, etc. looks like a score. Myself and @Third From Texas have that exact same truck. So you will make three on this forum! It's a select club. What's your truck serial number? Mine and @Third From Texas were built just months apart and from what we can tell are identical except his truck has a fiberglass skid plate and mine is steel - looks like your is steel like mine which is (heavy but STRONG). We should start a private message between the three of us since we are probably the members most familiar with these trucks.

I'll look over your lists and think about the issues I've had and jot down some thoughts.

For starters - track down a spare air compressor cylinder head and have it rebuilt and ready to go. My truck had 2,750 miles on it (over 18,000 now - daily driven), and 2600 miles into my 2700 mile drive home the compressor lost an exhaust valve and later punctured a piston. I barely got home with it. The exhaust valve springs on Haldex FMTV compressors seems to be a weak item. Mine isn't the only one I've found or seen failed. I carry a rebuilt head onboard for a spare - it's a small thing to carry and only about an hour to change it out. Air is very useful for these trucks.

Also with ECO hubs the cab is a LOT quieter so don't spend much time on sound deadening before your drive home. Spend the time on stuff that could strand you and worry about comfort later. Seats aren't that bad actually and you don't need air ride - if you are tall watch out for seat height. The stock suspension seats are actually quite ok - you'll have more cramps in your right foot and you'll be wishing for cruise control not air ride. LoL. I run the Mastercraft Defense A1P2 seats which are suspension like the A1R seats. Focus on bolstering and low profile and don't worry about the ride quality - it will be fine.

If you want to alter your course and swing over through Oregon you could stop at my shop in Portland before you leave the lower 48 and look things over with myself and my local FMTV friends and advise accordingly. Up to you!

My truck:

View attachment 924049

Nice looking truck! I wish mine wasn't repainted black but having a solid truck was much more important than the color. Where did you find your spare air compressor head, all I've been able to find are complete compressors?

The suspension seat bases I ordered are only 4.75" high at full extension including sliders, so hopefully they won't be too tall. I figure they'll be appreciated on the potholed/frost heaved Alaskan and Canadian roads.

I'd love to make it Portland for a meetup (and to get my ECU reflashed) but I'm not sure we'll have the time on this trip.

 

[AKPacker]

Absolutely do the ECO hubs before driving home. That would be on the very top of my list. 3 extra MPG and engine, transmission, and driveshaft longevity.

Yes that is definitely the plan, I'm looking forward to the fuel savings - the Ecohubs should nearly pay for themselves on the trip home!

 

[Keith Knight]

We are planning to head up to Alaska maybe next summer. What general area are you located?

 

[AKPacker]

We are planning to head up to Alaska maybe next summer. What general area are you located?

Southcentral/Anchorage, give me a shout when you head up this way if you want to meet up or need some Alaska info. There are a decent number of FMTVs running around up here, a couple of my coworkers have 6x6s and helped influence my decision to pull the trigger on mine.