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Sounds like the way mine ran. Never stayed on long enough to get the temp down that far. Running steady above 40 would get the temp up to the 220 mark and the fan would kick on for a minute or two then cut off before the temp gauge had a chance to move. After a lag of a minute or two, it would...

I took that pic with this plugged into my phone https://www.flir.com/products/flir-one-gen-3/?model=435-0005-02

The noise....the ridiculous amount of fan noise...and the power loss is irritatingly noticeable in stop and go traffic. You dont want to overcool the engine either. No matter the weather. Viscous fan clutches are really the best overall solution if, like you say, you don't need the fording...

It would help to know which belt system you have...V-belts, or Serpentine. The viscous clutch AND the fan need to be clockwise rotation for V-belts and Counterclockwise rotation for serpentine. The fan is 19"

Have you considered retrofitting a conventional viscous fan clutch off of an H1? Thats my plan if my OEM hydraulic ever cacked out. I bought a NOS H1 clutch and a derale 19" blade that fits the shroud opening to be installed when the time comes

That's the main point of failure in my experience with speedometer cables. Last one I did the angle adapter seized up and snapped the #25 stub shaft. I Think that little shaft acts as a "fuse" in the cable drive. Got a new piece(#25) and opened up the angle drive to clean and re-lube. Good...

I would at least inspect it to look for it being bent or boogered up, bad wires/connectors, and test that it switches continuity when you put the pedal to the floor. Since its one of the components of the fan clutch activation system, you might as well check it and eliminate it as a cause. And...

Its in the valley of the engine near the injection pump and throttle cable area. It has a little white plastic wheel that is part of the switch.

Maybe the fan fording switch is out of adjustment? Should only switch continuity when at wide open throttle.

Whats the generator output voltage at idle? When revved? What are the individual batteries voltages when not running? Is there any breaks in the wiring, or ground path that may be affected by the revving/torqueing of the engine? Maybe P/S fluid pressure problem? Just trying to think of out...

How did you check the tires for out of round? I would do this...take it to a decent tire shop and have them try to balance the tires. When each one is on the balancer, you can ask to look at the whole wheel/tire assembly as you rotate it by hand on the true plane of the wheel flange. You will...

You dont say!

Id wait and see. When you get the sensor and switch, replace the temp sensor first and try running it and see if it goes away or not. Then replace the TDS and run it again to confirm a fix. Report your findings. I'm sure we are all curious about the country of origin of your replacement parts...

Most excellent. Exactly what I was looking for. Thank you for those. I can eliminate some of my more crackpot ideas of how to mount the evap. Theres just not enough room to do much of anything different with that red dot setup in the two man configuration.

If you cant beat 'em, join 'em. I think someone there saw the light. Stop fighting the sales of the trucks to the public. Embrace it.... And give china a little made in USA competition.

HOLY COW! Treasure trove! Assuming they are peddling the real deal ...to ice out the market to the rising knockoff trade. I saw lots of stuff I had a hard time finding elsewhere. And some decent pricing. I'll definitely be placing an order.

Nice rig. It seems to have a shelter mount kit for that compressed air foam system. You may need shorter tailgate latches to replace the spaced out versions that are part of the shelter mount kit.

Ive run these three lights in the M998. I had good luck with the Trucklites but they looked to modern for my M998A0. I ended up going with the Hella E-Code H4. They use a replaceable H4 bulb that you can get in LED or Incandescent. The E-code lens puts all the light on the road with a nice...

Remove the paint from the lower corners of the body where the unit markings usually are. You'll find more information there.