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Yeah, mine has the same problem. Got to get around to re-sealing that yoke myself

There were some switches in there that controlled the backout drive features. The switches need to be present and working, or bypassed with a few jumper wires in order for lights to work on the truck

One of the minor annoyances since I bought this truck has been the incorrect speedo reading. I have stock axle ratios and 31 inch tires. Its way fast. Checked it with phone/GPS and it was 10MPH fast at 25 and got worse. 19 off at 50(reading 69) Did some searching on here and saw a lot of...

Are your blackout light switches installed? Removed? Bypassed? Mine were missing from a PO and was the source of my taillight woes. The connector/bypass was missing one jumper wire.

Slowly drilling down on the loose steering/wandering issue. Steering feel is very light and loose when centered. Falls off easily to either side from road imperfections. All in all, it's more of a handful to keep straight than it should be. Especially since it only has 15K miles on it...

Are you running LED bulbs by any chance? Are your blackout switches still installed and functional? Or are they removed/bypassed with jumper wires in the harness sockets?

It was a random sportmans guide offering some years back. They had these inner cans that held the stew

Gear tray/jerry can mount... Recovery equipment in a 1989 german insulated food can. No rattles. Cell phone pocket LED magnetic dome light.

FLIRone thermal camera plug in for smartphone.

I'll take it. That mount tray/bracket that's bolted to the rack...is it military, or something someone fabbed up? If its not for a specific radio, you can leave that off if it makes it easier to ship.

Do you got a radio rack in that trailer of scrap?

That's where my lighting issues were coming from. Missing a jumper wire in the dangling blackout connectors. PO(?) removed the B/O switches.

Exactly. I just went through this vacuum pump search. One guy I talked to called it a "solar system-wide backorder" For any of the ones that are reasonably priced. What is available are new ones(borg warner) or NOS that will run you close to $300. I got a good used one from the SS...

Looks nice. The only thing I saw that bothered me were the plasticos hanging from the shocks. Cut those things off!

Finally went out for a proper shake down run now that the new motor mounts are in. Deep sugar sand...and some washout crossings. It is now FMC

...When it finally spoke...I beheld a Great Cloud...and it was white. And the whole of the neighborhood beheld it too...and called the cops.

I once got a CB900C given to me free because it sat outside uncovered for 10 years with the carbs off. Guy said it was locked up with rust, which it was. I put a couple squirts of ATF in each cylinder and tried to get it to break free with the starter. Two tries each day...Clunk...Clunk...let...

Searched "HMMWV trans pan" on ebay. There was one listed. There is also a PML cast aluminum deep pan. I have one of their pans on my jeep. I Also have their diff covers on my jeep and dodge pickup. https://www.yourcovers.com/transpan_9683.php Diff cover...

Got the rear bumper numbers done. Red reflective strips. Moved the license plate to the tailgate. Finally added a license plate light.

Mounted my bridge plate. Thanks rocket990. Added some bumper numbers The FL-NG-X had been painted over and was on the original CARC green paint. The VIN search only revealed a UIC of W1Q9AA which so far is a dead end. So I just went with Non Tactical Vehicle #3