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Wow. Looks like a pretty standard truck. 6.2 even... "Lo miles" but no sign of overhaul... That would be its saving grace...

http://www.govplanet.com/for-sale/Humvees-2004-AM-General-M998-Humvee-HMMWV-Wisconsin/549502?h=5000%2Csm%7C1%2Ck%7Chmmwv%2Csort%7Cp+desc%2Cmf%7C1&rr=1&hitprm=k%3Dhmmwv,sm%3D1,sort%3Dp+desc&pnLink=yes

Depends on the site. At the Barstow base, the GP Rep (John) is awesome. Very helpful. You do have to fill out the paperwork through GP, but once you get there you will be well taken care of.

Me too. I'm just wondering how viable an option that is for a GMV.

How about those condenser kits that install in the wheel well? NSN: 2540-01-558-3450, PN: 5717186 Would that work? https://www.real4wd.com/zedSuite/catalog/partdetail.aspx?PartNo=5717186

Gotcha. No box in the back for mine... Just a standard early-style SF GMV-S type truck, with the bed rails & rear shelf. I wouldn't mind installing a rear wall if I could mount an AC on it, but I haven't seen that done before.

Pickup style yes, but still a project at the moment. What do you mean by "roll-up doors"?

Thinking about installing a Red Dot AC kit on my hardtop GMV (Not a Slantback). Has anyone has seen such a creature? So far, the advice I've received (from a very reputable source) is don't do it, but thought I'd check if there's a mod out there that makes it work. Maybe mounting the condenser...

I will send you a PM - great experience with Barstow.

Very nice - thanks! And looks like you've got a pretty clean truck!

That's what my initial research is leading me to. Going to try replacing the star seal first, since the leak is running down the brake caliper side.

Having a heck of a time identifying this leak, which is dripping from the front driver's side brake caliper. It does look and feel like brake fluid, but the master cylinder is still full. The brake line connections I can see are dry, as is the bleeder. The pictures are taken from the front of...

Got a part number?

That would be great, thanks. Getting the cables over there would be my only concern. You just interrupted the negative cable between the truck and the battery, right? I would buy the kit from TMG, but already have a switch... Just need cables and advice.

Very nice, thanks. What length of cables did you need to get that far? And which path did you take to route them?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/HMMWV-M998-M1114-military-hummer-battery-terminal-protection-kit-5935425-diesel-/180962092674?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2a222e6682

Ok, all better...

Can someone post a pic of where they think the best place to locate the battery disconnect switch is?

From what I understand, the keyed start switch requires that the original hole be drilled larger. Correct me if I'm wrong, but since that would mean that you can never go back to using the original switch, it's a no go for me. I'll get the door locks and lockable kill switch.

Good idea. No need to get all scientific. I'll use tape.