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The front evaporator has a condensation drain at the bottom, if the drain hose is missing or the nipple is broken “75% of the time” the condensation will just discharge onto the passenger floor board.

Removal or addition of a fording kit has nothing do with reliability of a hmmwv….the selector valve is removed so no possibility of leaving it in “forde” position, you only need to install a new CDR valve because the original was removed

has it been serviced? The front has a blower for heat and A/C, rear is A/C only. You need 3lbs 8oz of R134a to make this system run correctly

There is no NSN because the P400 was never a production motor nor used by the U.S. military , the turbo was the Eurova turbo…nothing like the GM6/7 turbo.

A radio power cable has 2 pos and 2 neg wires…those cut cables as well as others in these trucks, depending on model are all still wired and hot.

its a Catalytic Converter

These were Army GMV’s transferred to MARSOC

If you pull a pump out…replace it, there is nothing gain by reinstalling an old injection pump, working or not, Murphy lives in all trucks, the seals you can’t get to like the front shaft seal also fail and will leak from the weep hole, the advance plunger is easy but the plungers rust.

done many…,just take you’re time cutting all truck’s A2 and up have it from the factory

Drain the hubs and verify, it’s not uncommon to have trans fluid in the vent lines, it’s a known issue dues to venting of the Tcase and driving at hwy speeds.

than go and verify the valve is opening and closing

SN 300k and above is REV

did you pull the cable to open the hot water valve?

Quoted In conclusion: Taking coolant out at the back of the heads reduces the amount of coolant flowing forward and through the heads - plain and simple. That cannot be argued. The cylinder heads generate most of the heat in a running engine, and the cooling system has to move enough coolant...

no sir…the mfg is just trying to peddle his product, I get it, problem is…they just copied something out there that has been dispelled loooong before they ever manufactured their own product.

garbage.…save you’re money. I have a great right up with pics on why it’s actually not good to install a kit because It can actually cause hot spots.

if the upper radiator hose is hard, it’s pressurized. i would run a wire direct from the engine temp sensor to the gauge…I’ve seen high resistance shorts cause erroneous readings. just run it out side of the truck and plug into the gauge, just for a test.

should never get past 220 before the fan engages…the thermostatic switch is likely the culprit, but have you actually verified this to be truly the temperature? Have you changed the radiator cap? have you verified you have built pressure when at operating temperature?

You dont need to pull them to check them, glow plugs just dont fail unless something takes them out. low battery voltage will cause starting issue, check battery health