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Someone may know, I'm sure. Might peel back the loom and see if you can make out the aluminum tags. If we know the wire numbers, it should be simple to trace.

For the cab latch leak: Might try and contact Scott DeWitt. He moved and sold most of his LMTV stuff, but he still lists the cab latch seal kit for sale. But again, get ahold of him to confirm. His old shop used to be here but he moved to NM. I thought he was getting out of the business...

small leak in roof most likely from turret cover seal Can also be the marker lights. driver side hydro cylinder bypassed (I assume these are just used for compressing suspension for air travel) Delete 'em. cab lock will not engage (engaged when I first got it but now red plunger will not...

I'd suggest changing to dual batteries and worry about an alt swap if it ever fails. While the 260a alt isn't really a very practical swap (it would be very involved and the 260a dual voltage Neihoff is $$$$$) a HD commercial 200a 24v can be had somewhat reasonably. Slap on a 12v step down...

Saw this one kinda out your way... https://www.steelsoldiers.com/threads/fmtv-cargo-bed-covers-with-bows.212328/ EDIT: nevermind, they are for an MTV

Pretty sure the 100a from the A0 trucks is N1506-1 N1224-1 is the 260amp from the A1R trucks

CTIS transducer swap: Door seals: https://www.steelsoldiers.com/threads/lmtv-door-seal.170988/

Not sure what the price is for a replacement cab latch, but the rebuild kit is only a couple bucks and very easy to do. If there's no "hard part damage" (ie: some kinda of break/crack on the housing, etc ) I'd just rebuild it. There's a thread or two in here somewhere about door seals...

Lil' lube on the shaft works wonders !

Surprised that I've never found a Chinese knockoff of these filters. At $200 a pop there certainly should be. I live in a highly humid environment, but I've only replaced mine once in three years. I even considered swapping to the old style so I could clean/re-use. Yeah, I'm cheap...

Read up on how dangerous those brake cans can be. And be damned careful with 'em if you need to get into one.

Yeah, but he just needs a tan cargo cover. They are a dime a dozen on GP all the time. The shipping though.....

Try a mist of WD40, etc. My truck had that issue and I ordered replacement valves. Then I saw a video where someone suggest getting a little lube down that long hard shaft. What do ya know? It worked and hasn't hissed at me in years. ;p

A lot of folks have turned away from YouTube for the same reasons as they left FB. Rumble is the new normal for videos. https://rumble.com/ ;)

Cheaper to paint the truck than to ship a cargo cover. Green is faster, btw.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0787C31T1/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Make it look like this: (better yet, add a disconnect) ;)

Yeah, you're going to want to pull two of those batteries reconnect as duals. You never want to run mix-matched batteries in these trucks (you'll kill the alt which will cost you several grand). Given that you got your paper and seeing those batteries and driveshaft (not being "forked"), I...

Unrelated question, but as good a place as any to ask: So, I have a little 24v equalizer on my truck (dual 6TL batteries). I have a little 5a NOCO pulse maintainer (that I move between the two batteries and run periodically). I've wondered how well these two will play together.....charger...

Short answer: no The "driveline" issues that the 4x4 A0 trucks experience is mostly due to the steep downward angle of the rear driveshaft. The 6x6 trucks do not suffer from this design flaw as they kept the driveshafts straight (via an offset for the input at the pumpkin). Later A1R trucks...