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My only thought is "That's expensive!"

I'd be interested in the answer myself. My guess is there are baffles inside. The majority of noise coming from my 003A isn't from the exhaust though.

Wow, that's a fancy control panel and nice running generator! Maybe the starter needs a little cleaning and lubrication so it engages reliably when cold.

I don't see how an intermittent connection could have hurt anything on an 002A, other than a capacitor on a fuel pump. There's essentially nothing electronic in the generator, and a simple solenoid type fuel pump won't care about the bad connection. The capacitor on each pump is there to...

I think that's the type he had that failed, but I'm not sure. Mine, like his, has a green knob, but looks very similar. I haven't had any trouble with mine.

If I understand your post correctly, your battery disconnect broke, causing an intermittent connection (not a short). One series of events that I've heard about when the battery gets disconnected while running is it causes a ton of ripple on the DC from the charging system, which in turn blows...

It doesn't matter which wire goes on which terminal. The switch connects the two together when it gets pressure.

Matt, no I don't expect you had an overheating problem if you didn't run it for an extended time under load without the cover.

Sticking valve? I'll let the guys more experienced with diesel engines comment, but the "close to run" cover that makes the cooling air pass over the engine's cooling fins is missing. If you ran it very long under load that way, I would expect you may have overheated engine parts.

Unfortunately, 0.6 ohms between terminals C1 and C2 is way off of the 9.6 ohms ± 10% spec. If you're sure your meter was set correctly and nothing was connected to C1 and C2 when you made the measurement, then you found the problem. There are some available on the used/surplus market, but I...

You've lost regulation. The problem could be (in no particular order) 1. A failed AC regulator board 2. A failed T1 3. A failed T2 4. A failed CVT1 (check resistance between terminals C1 and C2 after removing wires) 5. loose connection to any of the above

The 24v charging system puts out only around 7 amps maximum, so it's not like a car's system that puts out a huge current like 100 amps. The car's charging system brings the 12v battery up to 14 or so almost immediately, whereas the generator's system may take an hour or more to bring the...

Also incorrect injector timing can make smoke, although I realize you just went through the timing procedure.

10 hp is going to be somewhere around 8 or 9 kW when running. It's hard to imagine a generator rated at 5 kW handling that load, say nothing of starting it.

Luckily I had an assembled board on the shelf, so I mounted it and the hardware on a heatsink panel (mounting plate) and did a final test. It's now on the way to you and in theory will arrive Wednesday. Thanks for the order, and I hope it solves the overvoltage problem. I'll be watching your...

Chainbreaker, good going! It's good to hear that you've been able to solve everything that's been thrown at you. As far as hearing the generators running at night, I'm in the same situation, listening for any little sign that something is wrong. My son likes the low frequency hum in the...

From the lack of fading of the control panel, I'd say that unit didn't spend a lot of time in the weather.

From your description and photo of the oil pressure switch, it seems likely it was leaking oil, which may have lead to its self destruction. I'm glad you found the problem!

You should be able to unplug power to them one at a time and verify that the other one keeps fuel flowing. Watch out if you replace one, so you get a new one that allows the other pump to pass fuel through it if it's not working. Some don't.

I'll let the experienced diesel guys help you, but as far as filling to 3/4 and stopping, that's normal. The last thing you want to do is push filling it completely and have the switch not shut off!