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I still have no idea which truck you are fixing. All the 809 and 939 series trucks are notorious for loosing prime due to aged rubber lines(especially the one from the filter to the IP. Change all rubber hoses and be good for a few more decades.

I would just replace the rubber hose, they lasted 25 years plus...

Are you using your cold start system? Which one do you have? You may simply have a bad battery cable. Measure each one. Also load test your batteries. Merged with your old thread, since all that info is useful to know here and this seems to be a continuation of that issue.

You will find the differences in the timing advance and governor.

Keep filling it until it shows at least.

Link does not work, care to explain what it is?

Learning to weld aluminum is great. Learning on a dirty transmission, inverted is not the way to learn. Even if you had it out and cleaned it the best you could inside and out, it is still going to be tough to weld due to oil impregnation in the case.

You'd need to pull it to weld it, the oil will contaminate your weld. Epoxy putty if you want to try without pulling it.

I'd try using a DMM and see.

You should never spray ether without the engine cranking. Using the factory installed ether start system is the best method. (safe)

Change the belt, go from there.

Indian Head shellac to seal the threads and gasket surface.

Nothing.

No, simply cut it out. You do not need it.

Just looked, yes the parts are shown and identified with GM part numbers in the -34P. I could not copy the page or I would have attached it here.

Are the parts shown and identified in the parts TM?

You want your hand slapped?:rules:

Load test the batteries.

http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?49999-SF-97-*exactly*-what-is-it

Good thing I reread this with my glasses on, the first time I read it I thought a "volunteer died"... It pays to reread!rofl