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Yep. S&S licensed the cab from Steyr.

Interesting. I've often wondered if you could do this (with two or more batteries making up the 12v side and one dedicated to become the 24v side). My idea was to prolong the capability to get sucked on by the 12v vampire that lives deep inside the truck. But I've also considered...

Just follow the beeps and chase the issues as per the TM. *back of the control box should also have the codes Low power or undervolt is almost ALWAYS a battery under 12v or a fuse is blown

Wire it according to the info up-thread and in others (either with the heater/sensor combo or the resister which will delete the heater/sensor). Battery 01: 14 gauge red+/blk- Battery 02: 14 gauge wht+/grn- 18 gauge brown is the thermo sensor loop (sensor or resister inline) 18 gauge...

You need a 9-pin male Molex plug: https://www.steelsoldiers.com/threads/making-your-own-shc-35-battery-pack-this-helps.206656/

Well last time I picked up a pair was pre-China virus, so... But they look to be still around that price. https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/BAT7256

I honestly don't recall what I paid last time. I'd say ~$500 for the pair (after taxes with no cores to exchange) if memory serves.

Bookmarked the first one for future sharing. Nothing beats a video showing how to actually use the TM. (much better than simply saying "Read the TM")

Merry Christmas #FJB

Lithium are best suited for house batteries (ie: RV where they are tucked away indoors). The benefits there are valid if you can afford to go with them. But I'd never considered lithium for "truck" batteries.

Another option is one made using an Arduino mini-PC kit. There's a member here who makes them and they've gotten some pretty great reviews. https://www.steelsoldiers.com/threads/ctis-and-arduino.181972/post-2299279

Even w/o airbags I've seen people get messed up that way, but yeah...

Yep Violently

They go into detail about making an internal vented locker for the tank. Not a way I would ever go but it's not all that uncommon in van builds. They even cover venting from altitude change and overfilling. Again it's the concept of the site (parts list, and interactive features of...

Those little water heaters are not meant for a permanent install. I looked at them but shied way due to the lack of external vent for heat dispersal. They have to be used in an open space, and yeah a gas leak would be big fun.

The 5-ton trucks have always had the correct driveshaft angle and pinion. The A1R was the first of the LMTV line to get the correction. Don't you have one set aside for your build?

The early and most common trucks with 3116 and mechanical injection were A0 variant. Later the 3126 was added with electronic injection for the A1 model. Many got LED light upgrades and some other changes S&S made based on feedback. A scant few of the later A1 trucks saw C7 engines. and...

" Life is about projects " My garage is FULL of life then ! ;) https://faroutride.com/van-build/

https://faroutride.com/van-electrical-calculator/

I'll give these guys credit, they did a nice job with the info. The site is a little rough to surf (I'd have never seen these if not for catching a link in a random search for something). While it's a smaller vanlife application, much of what they present can be applied to larger builds...