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Completely agree, ... but.. I would trust maybe a 30 year old system a lot better than generic Asian replacement stuff including lines. So you have to make sure that all is replaced or overhauled and all with high quality stuff. And that was before I read more here about sudden brake failure...

Finally an almost close to this thread .. for now. Before I forget: VERY IMPORTANT: when uncoupling and taking off the truck, be extremely careful with unscrewing the lines and make sure you do not bump the airpack against anything when you wriggle it out (or back) from the truck. I somehow...

You capped the connection at the airpack side as well?

Thanks for the clear answer. It's what I thought but I was hoping against hope ... Seems the only way how to really solve this problem is to figure out which commercial dual MC can handle this, install a second air pack, maybe even a third air tank, and split the brake system. As to splitting...

Saw this old thread while looking for info. Might as well reply and add my question/suggestion. Biggest problem of ALL M39s and M809 (the old 5-tons) is that they are single circuit. One leak and no breaks. A lot of threads about that. Standing on any hill or going with any speed and you will...

M39 - M51A2. I am overhauling the hydraulic air-assisted brake system. The filler cap of the MC has a vent line connection going into the airpack where it joins another line going in. THat vent line irritates me when trying to bleed and fill the system or controlling the system. Can I just cap...

Thanks. My problem is that this section of brake line has a 10 mm tube. I can get 8 and 12 here, but not brake-line quality 10 mm. I don't want to use the much smaller 8 mm, and the 12 mm I cannot fit in the connectors.

So how it was installed would stop air from getting to the glad-hand? I would love to cap them, but no fitting caps, so the single check valve would do nicely. My problem is that the airpack fittings use one thread, then in some places you need to put a connector between the airpack port...

Thanks for the heads-up. I will use modern plastic air hoses only the last part of the way to the glad-hands. The hydraulic hose I will use as replacement for the brake line between the end of the slave cylinder in front of the airpack to the split-connector on the frame, about 20 inch away...

I was buying some things to repair the air system, and came across a 50 cm hydraulic flex line suitable for a working pressure of 150 bar (2200 psi) and a burst pressure of 200 bar. With a connector added on each side, I can make it fit the connector at the front of the slave brake cylinder at...

I redid the Airpack and brakes. The front glad-hands are broken beyond repair, so I am replacing them with European glad-hands and now I am trying to connect metric glad-hand with the old air lines using US threaded bolts. Had to use an angle grinder to get the connector through the bumper off...

I was always in the unheated workshop, so cold int he winter and not very warm in summer, in closed canisters.

Just curious. I bought several small canisters with DOT 5 for my truck. Opened one to lubricate stuff while overhauling the MC and Air Pack two or more years ago. Closed the canister, opened it yesterday and the color is much more yellowish, not like the blue hue from the freshly opened...

How to make me nervous. No way I can check what the previous owner used, just have to hope that polyurea grease at that time (2000-2009) was more expensive, or they did not had it there, or they did not do anything and the last time somebody did something was in the depot or or or...

No fording: since 1986 to 1999/2000 in a POMS depot in the Netherlands 100 miles on the meter - then on a private camping ground transporting garbage and white sand, getting to 3000 miles - and since 2010 my property, maybe 100 miles as well. Grease colors do not mean anything? Mine is a nice...

Maybe because Ajax MD started this thread on the same topic, and he was talking about the axle seals and knuckle. Should I just put some of the old grease over the spines and leave it at that then?

OK, I did NOT touch the axle or the knuckle, only took of the hub, repacked the bearings and installed a new seal. So should I do anything with that axle or just leave it as is for the moment. No time to start do the knuckle and boot stuff, the truck has to move. Also, it looks like the...

They only needed it to help adjust the hammer positioning while it was hanging in the slings off the forklift (the red cable you see). The hammer is in its place already so its free. Tomorrow we will put the hub back with two people carrying it in a sling between them, while the third one...

I use thick heavy duty long rubber gloves for grease, thin gloves for most other things. And an old bed sheet to get the grease off everything beefore, during and afterwards. Grease: I cleaned and packed both bearings in nice new grease. Now I see that the splined part of the axle just...

Not sure how putting the bearing in a freezer back will help pack it apart from keeping the mess localized. I had the bearing also laying on a piece of plastic bag and used hands and a thin screwdriver to push the grease in between the rollers. than, when everything looked full, I used the air...