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Not at all. The other 7 would need cracked if you wanted to get all the air out. Sent from my SM-S906U using Tapatalk

Yes Sent from my SM-S906U using Tapatalk

Sounds like you have a gen 1 issue. If you unplug the 2 pin connector on it with the key on it should have battery voltage on both wires. 15.5 is a good bit higher than normal. Test what the actual voltage is on gen 1 when running. Guess on a bad voltage regulator in it. Sent from my SM-S906U...

Did you put the clear fuel line on the ip return yet? Sent from my SM-S906U using Tapatalk

Yeah the difference is the arm angle. They look identical at a glance and most don't think about it. So it's 12 volt...did they change the battery cables to a larger guage? If you have a 10 or 20 amp setting and good water levels they should be fine. Check the starter for the front bracket if...

Glad it was just the fuel pump. One of the most irritating problems with parts is getting the wrong one. There's 2 that fit...one works one doesn't. It is hard to get these to fire with no glow plugs or only a few that work. Since you have smoke I'd wait till you get the new plugs in. Make sure...

Ohhh ok. Yes...looking for fuel pump volume fuel flow to the ip. Sent from my SM-S906U using Tapatalk

That's not what I asked. Are you getting fuel out of the filter bleed screw. Best to hook the bleed screw to a bottle to see how much fuel is coming out. Sent from my SM-S906U using Tapatalk

Are you getting fuel to the filter though. You said it wasn't getting fuel through the filter. When you open the bleeder on the filter does fuel come out? Sent from my SM-S906U using Tapatalk

Oh I thought you changed the pump and fuel filter? Sent from my SM-S906U using Tapatalk

If you're having a tough time getting fuel to the filter with it cranking a bunch then you have to start there. Is the fuel pump the right one? 60281 Carter number...others have the same. There's 2 pumps that come up in the parts catalog one works one doesn't. Could be a tank issue like the...

Yes in the parts tm it's listed as a stock part. Sent from my SM-S906U using Tapatalk

So if its flashing depends on engine speed the problem is the rotor in the alternator. It is not the diode for the alternator. That's up under the dash by the blackout relay. If it was burned you'd have a bunch of different problems. Changing the relays will do nothing if the gen 2 light goes...

Ok take a pic of the washer you didn't put back in and I'll know which one it is. Sent from my SM-S906U using Tapatalk

Is it a small fiberglass type washer? It goes under the rectifier. There should be one for each bolt that holds it in. Usually don't get them in the rebuild kits. Sent from my SM-S906U using Tapatalk

Don't jump power to that plug. It already has power coming from where it's supposed to get it from. Your alternator is the problem. The regulator is my guess. Sent from my SM-S906U using Tapatalk

The relay is for alternator 2. The gen 1 light has to turn on with the key...off when running. From what I read it is coming on while driving. Unplug the 2 pin connector and test for power with the key on....not plugged in. Should have battery voltage. If you do then rebuild the alternator. Can...

That sounds right to me. I like to start at 18 inch lbs and wiggle from there. It takes a bit to find if it shifts how you want it to. If you can't nail it down right how you want it then it might need to mess with the governor. Sent from my SM-S906U using Tapatalk

I don't know what the pod and hw is but it's a standard round distributor gasket at the block ..paper usually. Pretty sure a small block Chevy gas engine fits too. Sent from my SM-S906U using Tapatalk

No I'm thinking of my 1028 not my 1009. It isn't revving high but bogging down if shifting into 3rd at 25 mph. Way to low. But I guess if youre happy with that low shift point just leave the trans how it is. Any change you make will only raise shift points as I don't think you can make them any...