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I would highly suspect at least one of the condenser motors is stuck or "tight" pulling too many amps and tripping the 30A breaker in the battery box that feeds wire #720A, that breaker powers the rear evap and the rear condenser fan motors. I would begin by unplugging one of the rear condenser...

Holy Moly, both the factory and I have been doing it wrong all these years :) You need to strip any oils off of the head and valve cover mating surface, wiping them is not enough.

If you let the magic smoke out it will not be hard to find the problem, likely a FET or two with big holes it them, that is a really old box so its time was due.

If in fact you have to have three locations then you are sunk, there is only one place on a HMMWV that has the serial number and that is the data plate. Maybe the folks you are talking to are just ignorant. Hopefully someone from NE will chime in here.

There are two on the outside of the battery box (between the battery box and the frame rail) one positive and one negative, not on the frame rail. The bolt that carries the negative from the shunt to the neg cable through the wall of the battery box seems to give allot of folks trouble.

Considering you have tried known working PCB boxes then the glow plugs could be bad, that would cause the wait light to only flash on a smart start box, ohm each one out, they should be around 2 ohms, if bad they will be way off of that. Have you checked ALL the battery cables pos and neg? there...

You need to carefully jump the solenoid wire (#74) to 24V, you may have a bad starter. The wires that go to S and T on the diag port are in a harness that is completely separate from the engine harness so it is less likely you have a fault on both harnesses. The start/run/glow plug circuits go...

The engine serial number never had anything to do with the vehicle serial number (VIN) on any HMMWV There is also no frame number, the only serial number is on the data plate

If you a If you're asking if it is normal to have play in the pinion (input) shaft to the differential the answer is no, those bearings are supposed to have a preload, read they should be tight.

I have not read every word but wonder if you have installed the missing CDR valve, if not you have a direct opening into the intake, one little piece of trash in that hole and the engine is toast.

You can post here in the classifieds, you must be a supporting member $15 a year well spent!!

I looked at one in the shop and it turns smoothly and continuously, in fact it has to as the rest of the ass turns while the little hub on the front is stationary.

He actually has the base in place for the R-422A/VRC receiver which would make it an AN/VRC-47

Looks like an RT-524/VRC to me I have a couple of them hanging around under my bed.

No need to guess, That is a AN/VRC-12 radio setup With RT-524 radio

My vote is for anything but the Detroit :ROFLMAO: Depending on what you want to do, if all you want is to cruise the back roads then a Detroit will do. I would think a good pull out would be the cheapest given the cost of parts and machine work, not to mention not allot of folks have the...

There is one other possibility, since the fuel filter was in bad condition (how long has it been since you changed it?) The lift pump is going to try and push that fuel through the filter and if it is clogged It is possible it pushed crap past the filter and that the filter screen on the IP...

I would guess the lift pump is OK, I have never seen one work at idle and fail at speed. So it sounds like there is a restriction somewhere, could be the pickup sock in the tank, the check valves,, honestly that should be one of the first thing any HMMWV owner should do, I don't remove them from...

Interesting they spent so much effort looking at the glow plugs when that would not lead to a rough running engine except for at start up.