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Only three things must happen for a good IP to inject fuel.
1, the pump shaft must be turning
2, the IP must be receiving fuel
3, the shutdown linkage must be in the run position.
Is it possible the original IP was seized?
And you say you are still getting fuel out the return fitting?
Have you...
Another big day in the DuraVee, ran about 170 miles today, the last "run" was an 86 mile round trip down US181 and back at 3PM
It was 95 deg but the killer was the 18PMH cross wind.
These wind generators show that problem, in my experience a 45 deg cross wind against ether the Port or Starboard...
If he is getting fuel out of the return port on the IP then the IP is getting fuel.
Is it possible you installed a 12V IP and the solenoid is now fried, do you hear a click from the IP when the run switch is put into run?
ALSO remember any time you switch the run switch to OFF you MUST wait at...
If it were me I would pop the inst. panel and look for 24V at the back of the fan switch.
Is the alt charging? there is a relay in the PCB box that sends 24V to CB1 as you can see by the schematic that feeds the fan switch, but it also powers the IGN. terminal on the alt, if it that relay was...
The sock was suggested in post 18, and the OP said in post #20 "Filter and housing were terrible. Makes me suspicious of the fuel tank"
Which would have been the natural progression of troubleshooting as all that crap had to come from somewhere.
Unfortunately it took 4 more pages and a lift...
It was a gorgeous day down here in S TX today, I put almost 200 miles on the DuraVee getting supplies.
Here is the view while approaching the new ship channel bridge in CC,9 (EDIT driving south) it is aligned perfectly with the road as it is taking the same path as the causeway and RR tracks...
IMHO the entire reason to go to a spin on is to get rid of that OEM filter that is a PITA to work with, not to mention being a canister filter and should definitely not be the "final safety" filter in your system if you are going to run multiple filters.
If you want to keep the OEM as the "final...
A volt/ohm meter, basic electrical trouble shooting and the schematic will get you the results you are looking for.
Sorry I can't help you with the volt meter:D
Why would you want to keep the OEM filter?
Yes, Chinese Buffet in Portland TX today,
A couple hundred miles on the DuraVee today trying to pick up parts for the Bobcat 15C auger.
The seals and the 1 1/4 cold rolled pin was no problem, finding a piece of 1 1/4 SCH80 pipe to repair the swivel...
Run out of fuel or change the filter no problemo, just run the pump for a few minuets and it will prime itself.
Also no need for a filter before the pump as that gear pump will digest anything the fuel tank can send it
This is my medicine for the OEM lift pump and filter.
A Raptor pump and a spin on filter, mounted in the right wheel well.
I normally run 8-10PSI, the 3PSI the gauge is showing is the pressure it takes to open the return check valve in the IP, it would just sit there at 2-3PSI for weeks
Any...
OMG!!!:eek:
IMHO you are going to have to pull that tank, there is no way again IMHO you are going to get it anywhere near clean any other way.
Black=bugs
I installed a 6L90 in a HMMWV and it had stock TCM in it and a completely mechanical engine, I used a PCS external "controller" easy as pie, programming the TCM and the controller was no sweat.
Seems running the 6.6 with the 6L90 would be no problem as is, a stand alone modified harness should...
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