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Late update on this. I finally just pushed that upper balljoint out. It indeed had a cut on the bottom for a C-clip. Must have been some oddball part. The shaft for the joint looks just fine though. I'm going to pressure wash everything now and then change out the u-joint then reassemble...

I hear ya. I'm going to try to dial in the steering box after I get this back together. I figured replacing everything up front was worth the effort since this is a 40 year old truck I intend on keeping forever. I have heard pops and things steering it at a stop, so I suspect the u-joints are...

Victory! Back to the ball joint now.

I'm tired of playing around with this. I just put the nuts back on the studs and sanded both down with a dremel. I'm planning to weld the nuts to the studs with a flux core rod. I figure this will put a ton of heat into the cone washer and hopefully give me a method to back everything off...

I have already knackered two studs and I'm going to replace them all. Just trying to get the parts apart at this point and clean up the scuffs with a die grinder. At this point I'm assuming the torch will be involved.

People behind me have seen it, but I can feel it driving. It comes and then goes away, usually after a turn in the opposite direction. Going around corners usually triggers it. There is a 1.5" lift but no blocks. I found that the nuts were not torqued to spec by the shop that did the work...

So, I'm stuck. I was going to push out the bearing, but my tool can't get around the steering arm. So I started removing that and I'm ashamed to say I've spent hours trying to get it off. I found out about the cone washer issue, and I was able to knock one out with a punch. The others I...

It looks like there is a cutout for a snap ring. I think that's the issue. I can't get to that point. Will explain in next post.

That's unfortunate. A lot of these batteries are being manufactured in China and the failure rates are very high.

The steering on my M1009 had become terrifying with it dog walking down the road, so I'm in the process of replacing all of the front ball joints and u-joints. On the steering knuckle, I just popped the lower ball joint loose. I was about to do the top and noticed something strange. There is...

Made me wonder too. This afternoon I got a chance to break out some tools and get under the thing. It looks like the "Jeep shop" that installed the springs torqued one side, took a smoke break, then did something else. The driver's side was totally loose. Good thing the sway bar kinda sorta...

We had some better weather today so I finally got under the truck and looked around more closely. I also jacked up the front and tried to "wiggle" the wheel assembly as best as I could. Also put a bar under the tires and looked for loose ball joints. Everything was fairly tight except I think...

OK, thanks. I came back to ask about that. I've been searching old posts and couldn't get that answer. I see that the diff is an open 10-bolt, but I'm not sure which "civilian" version to target. As an example, look at this site: https://www.motorcityk5.com/c-9088-76-91-blazer-axles.html...

Thanks. I'll check the rag joint. This has happened before. I was under the truck last night and confirmed no frame cracks. I'll weld in a reinforcement plate at some point.

Looks like the correct socket is a 4 pin, based on a reply I received on YouTube. This one was recommended. https://www.amazon.com/Performance-Tool-W1269-Wheel-Drive/dp/B0002KNZV4

My M1009 front end is getting dangerously bad, quickly. I went around a big turn yesterday nearly went off the road. I had to dial in a lot more steering and then the wheel was off-center for a while until things settled down. It felt like it was dog legging for a bit. Rather than debug...

Thanks, I did send him those notes and I will probably order a puck to have on hand when I start having problems again. To close out this post (for now), they determined the regulator was doing a good job of evening out what vacuum there is and they put a low vacuum modulator on the trans...

He said it's bouncing high/low at idle. He said it could be due to a rough idle of the diesel, but I'm with you, I don't see a reason to NOT replace that diaphragm.

The owner told me they were testing just at the pump to isolate it. He said they figured out the lines and I sent them a diagram from the TM. I'll call today and see if they are willing to swap out the puck.

I posted about a year and a half ago about the botched TH400 rebuild job I got at a local shop. It lasted about 900 miles until recently when it started revving high, slipping, and the fluid was burned. It's now at what seems to be a much better local shop, and the shop owner has been keeping...