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What model/ser# truck do you have, this will help folks guide you to the correct information.

It takes a long time at idle (if ever) before you will feel any heat in that top hose, the small hose going to the reservoir getting warm is a good sign that water is moving in the system. Just make sure the PS pump is full after every time you run it until the steering is working

I got a good look at the two different sides and the A2 steering arm definitely has different geometry so if you put the A2 drag link, tie rods etc. on your Basic or A1 (which I did on the DuraVee) and do not change the steering arms you are not getting the A2 steering geometry. EDIT they...

That link is for the HUMMER, some parts are not correct for the HUMVEE, particularly the fuel filters, the civy world would not have put up with that piece of junk they put on the Humvee

But learn not to do that, feather your stops like a grown up ;)

Mystery solved, they broke the steering arm, I managed to get all the broken and bent bolts out so I may get to go on that little jog after all. Check out that corrosion! NOTE, all I had was an A2 (CTIS) steering arm, evidently there are dimensional differences as the tire is still way out of...

The absolutely essential thing to have a safe and uninterrupted off road experience is a properly serviced and maintained vehicle. Not drinking will also help :ROFLMAO: Hey, hold my beer!!!!!o_O

I never have had a problem, it has been a while but IIRC I just set it on an upside down bucket so the weight was resting on the outer half and just pushed down.

You cannot "break" the bead on these wheels with the run flat in place, the rim must be separated, tire machine is a definite no no

Could be a bad regulator, check the voltage at the IGN terminal to make sure it tracks with the battery voltage, the regulator probably uses that as a reference so if it is low it will try to raise the voltage, also of course check all the connections from the batteries to the block and alt...

I just use a 3/8 extension, guess I am doing it wrong o_O

Almost a long day. I drove up to Springtown this morning to pick up this junker. I got there with 9 minutes to spare (7:51AM) Total for the day was 755 miles Total fuel 73.2gal I got the chance to spend almost 2 hrs visiting with a guy I went to collage with almost 50 years ago, lives near...

Not sure if that is a valid number or not but the parts TM has two numbers listed depending on what IP you have. If you have the "correct" IP then it would be the second nozzle, your M998A1 has a UOC of A13

You should get a solid transmission light when the run switch is in the run position but not running, if not most likely the TCM has no power.

Sounds good, do not forget to get the IP rebuilt it is one of the most likely failure points in the injection system, much more so than the injectors themselves

I'm not sure a little "fuel smoke on acceleration" is a good reason to replace the injectors, this is not a ECM controlled engine and a little smoke on acceleration should be expected. Why tempt the fates? or Why open Pandora's box or If it ain't broke don't mess with it....

There is no logical reason to twist the Duramax at 2700RPM+ at normal highway speeds, even without the T/C failure issue. BTW when it does fail it takes out the engine (usually rips the pan off) and transmission, just rips the side out. There seems to not be an issue with the 2.73 gears...

How about a set of V belts?

BTW you need to ditch those 3.07 gears, seems the T/C front output shaft does not like running with the engine turning 2700+ rpm at 75mph, (multiple failures) I am running the 2.56 gears and turning about 2150RPM at 75MPH which is about 100RPM or so higher than my 2008 GMC C3500HD LTZ with 3.73...

Putting dual alts on the LMM is easy, it already has the mounts or at least most of it