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You should not replace anything until you have troubleshot the problem to the defective device. Are you getting 24V to the gauge wire 27H? Does the gauge move when the wire to the sending unit is open (removed from sending unit) and or shorted to ground? (wire 33A/B)

You need matched belts for the alternator, the only way to get them is to buy a matched set and pay the HUMVEE tax, you can get close if you hand pick the belts from the same manufacturer with the SAME build date code. Considering how much trouble they are to change I am surprised you want to go...

Someone should chime in with the info you need.

Do you have an alternator with the "high speed" pulley? Some alternators had a smaller pulley so they would make more power at lower RPMs, throws the tach off as that is what the tach reads. EDIT, I think they were used mostly on the 400A alternators.

Make sure the rear side and rear "lips" are tight against the rear of the body, you may have to put a ratchet strap across the back to pull the bottom of the helmet top together so it fits tight against the body before drilling the holes for the rear mounts.

Others can advise on the engine hoist, I use a large commercial "cherry picker", I would think it would be a challenge using something from say Harbor Freight as it is so far from the front of the chassis to the engine

For some reason I thought you had 2.73 gears, back when you were planning complete axle swaps I was hoping to get those diffs. I appreciate the offer but I was looking for 2:73 diffs.

Dang, I guess I will not be getting those pumpkins!! :cry:

The problem is in the civy world there are two carriers, one for 2:73 and down and one for 3:08 and up, the HMMWV uses the 2:73 and down for all applications and the 2:73 and down carrier is rare in the aftermarket world, as almost nobody uses a gear ration that low.

All the carriers for the HMMWV are the same part number so as you found out there is no split in that application.:( EDIT, I wonder if the civy 3.08 gears are different?

It's a doohickey :giggle: The asterisk usually means it is not listed separately, only comes as part of an assembly.

Welcome to the big leagues :)

You need one of these...

Will it crank from the start switch? if so the problem is between the start switch and the IP. If so check pin I wire 74A at the PCB plug on the engine side connector of the PCB box while trying to start it, after checking the inside and outside PCB connectors for corrosion and tightness as NDT...

I purchase hundreds of items a year on fleabay, I never bug the seller until the delivery due date has past, then I open a case. (EDIT, and even then only if it is not moving through the shipping company) I have had many items that never showed to actually be shipped show up before on on the due...

220 is more or less normal, do you hear the fan kicking in and out? they are rather noisy. There is a wide variance to the accuracy of the gauges, but it will happily run fine until you completely cook the engine, not likely why it is shutting down. 230-235 is max. You obviously are used to...

All there is, is fuel, air and compression, heat usually has nothing to do with it not running, they run hot anyway.

Could be for sure, it might also be a plugged fuel tank vent try loosening the fuel cap it when it fails and see if it pulls air into the tank, IE vacuum on the tank.

No computer on the engine, just the trans and it does not have an OBD port, the engine is all mechanical, probably restricted fuel. filter/pickup screen or bad lift pump or leaking fuel line sucking air.

The only successful scam I have had run on me in the last few years was not on eBay, it was just an "internet" company and they manipulated the UPS system to show it had been delivered (a day before it was shipped) PayPal was no help as it showed to be delivered and it was only for $35 so I did...