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Weight in the bed will help in your case. If something does grenade, it will usually be an axle shaft or U-joint. No biggie.

This guy does them in his shop. I've done them in my garage. No machinework usually, just buy the parts kit and go. Most of the work is cleaning the greasy bugger up.

Different transmission guts, the gasser is direct 5th, the multi is 16% OD. Same case, either will fit.

Those plastic cans seem to have a longer lifespan around here. No rust...

Count your blessings if you don't have to use split bolts on your gensets. One mixup and things will go sideways quick!

Snow. Snow? Oh yeah, that white stuff that falls from the sky where it gets cold. I've seen it on occasion up North. lol.

Very high quality spray paint in lots of colors is Montana, sold by dickblick.com. It has a real high pigment load with premium solvent, and custom nozzles are available. Not cheap, but neither is reworking a bad job. You'll never go back to Krylon or Rustoleum.

Chains don't do diddly in sand. Soft (deflated partially) tires are the ticket.

Coulda, shoulda, woulda. The three most defeatist words in the English language.

What I witnessed wasn't attributed to the harmonic balancer failing, said by the old mechanic. It was a dynamic fault in the design. I don't now if Hercules ever really did any research, or maybe later Continental did. There were at least 4 iterations of the MAN-patent engines; 427, LD-465...

The stock wiring for lighting is #14, and will support 70/75 Watt H4 halogen headlights along with a bunch of tail & marker lights. BTW, the numbering system on the wiring in M-series tactical and armor vehicles is the same, regardless of the vehicle application. Once you get used to it, it...

I'm curious as to why you need all the 'extra' stuff in the wiring...

You can buy a complete front and rear harness for your truck easier than going thru that mess of wiring a bit at a time. An example...

Years ago, I was at the Yermo USMC base in Barstow, Ca to pick up an M37 I bought from DRMO. I talked to a mechanic there, and the topic went to the Multifuel engine. He escorted me to a fenced acre full of hundreds of pallets, each with a multifuel with the center web blown out. The story...

Shredded a front tire on my M54A1 in slow driving around the property. It split, giving a hiss hiss hiss. By the time I got it where I wanted it, the entire carcass was in pieces. Luckily I have a fresh Goodyear AT-2 14.00-20 to replace it with. Still, a royal pain in the ass.

Get Kevlar thread for the job. Seal the seams ahead of sewing with a tiny bead of OSI Quad Max caulk. Best flexible glue ever.

Another small-diameter circuit is that feeding the F-R selector valve on the transmission that controls the transfer. That is if you have the M39 series or the 800-series.

Truck supply houses sell gladhands with valves built-in. Not expensive, DOT approved.

I've found the old style ferrules work fine with the plastic tubing. Just make sure to use the proper 'internals' for plastic.

If you do go for a 12V unit, don't be tempted to draw the power from a tap between the batteries. (Unless you run a newer hi-amp alternator with dual voltage outputs) It is a short course in ruining your batteries...