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And they are way old school. You are better off going to HF, Northern Tool or your local Kragan. You won't use it much, but it will be there when you do need it. To run A/C and freezers plus lighting, 4000w minimum.
Drive it with the switch "on" and make a tight turn. The steering wheel will want to pull out of your hands. It is not good to drive on pavement with the front end engaged!
We do a get together a couple of times a year out at Stoddard. Good to see another SoCAl person. If you go to the calendar on the right side of the main page, click on the 11th..it should be highlited. The SCMVCC swapmeet is this weekend. Might be a bit of low attendance, it is Old Fort Mac...
They also make tapered cast iron plugs for block repair. You drill one end of the crack, tap the hole, loctite or epoxy the plug ant tighten it up. Then you cut the protruding part of the plug off, drill and tap another hole to over lap the 1st plug and continue the process 'till the crack is...
DH is correct. If the choke has been stuck, the plug is most likely fouled. Slam a new one in there. If it has been sitting, the gas nowadays doesn't have any shelf life. You'll probably need to pull the float bowl at a minimum and clean it out.
Read the TM, brakes on these are nuttin to take a chance with. You should start at the MC, then air pack, then wheel cylinders. Get a pressure bleeder or make one. It makes life much easier.
Read the manuals first. They are free in the resources section.
Make sure the fan is on the correct way. Looking at the old stat it shows that there was a seal there, make sure it is still there. No seal equals the coolant returning to the block loop and not going through the radiator. Verify the dash gauge with a known good one. Remember electric gauges are...
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