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I knew I couldn't be the only one making that mistake a few times. And that was also before I realized that there was no need to run the engine anywhere near 1,800 rpm, so things happened quickly.
An OSHA inspector would freak out over a SEE, I think.
Well, no, they don't shorten the driveshaft, but the do shorten the distance between the transfer case and pinion yoke when bent.
If they also shortened the driveshaft accordingly, I wouldn't worry about it.
Not that I know how much "give" there is in the 419's setup, but I have yet to see a...
My concern was the effective shortening of the driveshaft, not knowing how much travel there is available in these setups.
And since it was dirt simple to straighten them, why not make it like it's supposed to be?
All Class 8 tractors I've seen work that way, a gear driven compressor feeds the dryer, then the dryer feeds the so-called wet tank, and then pressure gets distributed from it.
No special purge tank, stopping the compressor, or anything like that.
Well, they could be mounted on a 4-inch wide rim, too, but should be on 10.5 to 11 inch wide rims to work as intended. For improved cornering I'd even go to a 12-inch wide rim, but not under 10.5 for basic daily driving.
That should be one problem that's easy to fix. It's not a matter of the distance between the engine and dryer that counts, it's the length of the hose between them.
On my Peterbilt, which has a far more meaningful compressor, about the first four feet or so has to be a braided hose (for...
You may not need the alky system. I've been running without one on the Summer SEE ever since I "borrowed" the parts to put on the Winter SEE. Not that it's been used all that much in below freezing temps, but still.
I think peakbagger has the air dryer setup figured out. Try searching for "air...
My HMMH has started doing that, on and off. I strongly suspect that the regulator is dirty. It's not an obstruction downstream, that I checked for.
Normally there shouldn't be any air escaping until pressure is built up in the system, but as mentioned, sometimes that unloader valve just "puffs"...
I'd think more towing related, especially since that "handle" would lend itself well to holding safety chains.
While I've considered making something that'd fit an upside down 3-point, using the locks and that tab, I have yet to think of any use for it. Not being able to adjust the height...
Not sure what it's supposed to be for, but I bought large shackles a while back that will go on there for towing/extraction purposes.
Still haven't figured out the best way to enlarge the inside of the 1.8-inch shackle opening to 2-plus inches, though.
As alpine44 points out, sometimes it may be worth trying to leave things alone for a while.
I had both outrigger cylinders dripping quite a bit after a bit of a mud bath, and even while in the retracted position. But I never did get around to replacing the seals. Several months later, when...
Hey, I even sold a SEE a while back, so I'm down to five FLUs.
Anyway, the HMMH I'm using is far from museum quality (first hint) and while it lives under a roof of sorts, it's not garaged (second hint).
Okay, I never thought I'd sell it, but make me an offer I can't refuse and you can have a whole HMMH, in darn near museum quality.
I could use the garage space.
Now that I think about it, since removing and reinstalling the bucket isn't that fun, maybe build something that can be pinned in using the bracket for the ripper?
And I can relate to wanting a winch, too. Except I'd want it on the crane.
Making a winch mount at the base looks doable, but I'm...
You could do a lot of the same things with a SEE's backhoe, just not with the same precision (with me operating it anyway) or reach.
Making a "Skyhook", like what I did with a Quick-Tach plate, but to pin in place of the bucket, would give you the reach.
As I recall, at least one of my levers...
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