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Hey, Speedwoble, do you happen to have the swivel couplings for the hose reel still? I have two leaky ones and trying to decide whether to replace or try to repair them.

Pic 2, most likely the wire for the useless blackout light, which may or may not still be on the loader. Pic 4, looks like that one belongs on top of the engine hour unit. Pic 6, I'd get some caps off of whatever that fits, and not worry about the wires for the sensors. Pic 9, no that's not...

Hey, we've been throwing a bit of everything in here, and it seems to work fine. Just do it. (You can blame me later if someone whines).

In your next post(s)?

Umm, the trans in the HME is different, yes, but only in that it also has the hydro drive, which I think is a bolt-on. But other than that (and the HMMH's front suspension lock-out) they seem to be the same to me as far as suspensions and transmissions go.

I seriously doubt they're different. As far as I know all three versions use the same frame. But I can check if you want.

Isn't there a Freighliner VIN, which is on a plate in the cab, and a different Unimog VIN that's stamped on the frame?

Success. It was even easy to back up without having a trailer between the tow vehicle and the con gear.

Speaking of air systems, today I attempted to do something I've been wanting to try for years; tow an air brake equipped trailer with a SEE. Problem number one, the pintle is too large to fit a regular commercial tow ring. Fixed that with a grinder. But maybe the pintle is only good for 50,000...

At one point I thought about adding a triangle, but then thought "Why?" Not that I drive on public roads much, and no cop here would really care if I drove 10 or 50 mph with it on. Just like they don't care that I drive without one. But I think that for those that want to be legal, or close to...

I would use the lack of paperwork as a potential bargaining chip, but don't understand why you'd want a SEE registered. Put a triangle on it (if you happen to end up on a public road) and be done with it.

Couldn't you bend the levers a bit, so they clear?

I don't know the internals, either, but it's the same principle as a splitter in a 13 or 18-speed tranny in a Class 8. I, and most everybody else, split gears and shifts those without using the clutch.

Surplus Center has (had?) nice seats for about $25. I bought a pair but have yet to install them.

You may want to ask yourself how much has to work, and what you don't really need. For example, if I have working temp and oil pressure gauges, that's enough for me. Work lights front and rear can be nice, and if the wipers work. That the cooling fans work is a near must for my usage...

No, I bet you don't need a new switch. You're plenty smart enough to do without it. Just put a jumper wire in there and be done with it. Glad I could help, if it turns out to be the switch, but they're costly. At least try with a jumper before spending the money.

I have one that came with a short hose attached, the rest have just the fitting. That hose goes down, so it serves to keep water out when it rains, and I've been meaning to add short hoses to the others for that reason.

Sounds like the dumb switch on the clutch is doing its thing. I don't care if I can't use the intermediate gears, but it's nice when the switch allows me to start the engine in the first place. Try a jumper wire on the switch before digging too deep into the rest of the system. I can see...

Leaving the fuel cap a bit loose would be the easy way to check for fuel starvation due to a plugged vent. Of course, the SEE would have to be driven/worked a bit for any results to show, but isn't that what we have them for in the first place?

From a different angle than the one in post #10, or am I missing something?