Search results

Are you positive it is not disengaging? it will spin all the time disengaged or not. If it is engaged all the time is should roar at higher RPM

The small one is the cold advance, man it looks like a bunch of metal "filings" bunched up around the run solenoid plunger...

You should see the clutch go in and out as you do this just like with the air tests. If the line going to the clutch goes limp then everything from the battery to the valve is working. as when the valve drops the pressure to the clutch it engages. If the PS is working you definitely have enough...

What I meant was to check to see if the wires to the valve had 24V, this would necessarily be on the valve side of the plug, use sharp probes to prick through the wire rubber coating. I see time and time again where someone will unplug the connection to whatever and say they have voltage to...

Well the solenoid trips a lever in the governor housing on the IP. I would not be surprised if Roosa Master did build pumps with mechanical shut down but I cannot ever remember seeing one. I think allot of other things are going to fail on you before the IP shutdown solenoid...... But no you...

Then you need to get out the volt meter and see where the failure is. The valve only has two wires 583 and 93 (according to the schematic I am looking at) if you have 24V across those two wires at the valve the fan should be cut off if not then it is not an electrical issue. The fan will free...

The HMMWV does have the 5 point security screws, be very careful when messing with the IP, I have read that the top cover can be incorrectly installed causing a runaway engine, but have not seen this myself. The run solenoids are pretty reliable, not one of the things I would be concerned about...

This may be an EESS box or battery issue. So you are saying you turn the key to start and after a short time the starter just acts like you released the start switch, as the starter just stops? Then you cycle the switch and it tries again? As Coug said I would test the batteries first, the EESS...

You need to get the schematic and trace the signal, it is a fail safe system as pointed out above, just about any failure will cause the fan to run.

Not too likely if the power steering and power brakes work.

Have you made sure the clutch disengages (try and move the fan?) when you put air to it? I am not sure moving in and out is an absolute test. If the "hissing" stops then I would say the cadillac valve is switching so I would look at that clutch again

Funny you mention the smell, in 1990 my wife worked at a VCM plant making the ingredients for vinyl, we purchased a 1990 chevy truck and she pulled a sample after it sat in the sun all day, ran it through the plant and it had 400 times the recommended exposure of vinyl (time weighted for an 8...

Texas is HMMWV friendly, sorry I cannot actually answer the question.

I am not sure why you are asking but there is a 12V feed to the TCM that is hot all the time and a switched feed.

Do not think I am jumping on your case but there is allot of maintenance that you are way behind on, those bolts should have been checked when you inspected/replaced the geared hub spindle locking retainers which is the first thing you do along with changing all the filters and fluids and...

Short sleeve weather in South Texas again. I ran the flywheel for the FAV to the machine shop in Corpus today, always enjoyable making a trip in the DuraVee

Also you need to be more observant , those missing bolts should have been easy to spot

You need to inspect that half shaft closely, any out of round (wallered) holes in the flange, bad.... ALSO and cracks splits or tears in ether of the boots, bad....

I think that was an active vehicle so it would be 37s

I would poke around what looks like a lone relay, IIRC the 4 together is the run relay(S) used to be one big one, the FETs are for the per-heat