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It has a sprag clutch in it to keep the torque from the spinning alt from causing the belt to squeal when the engine suddenly stops, sounds like it needs some lubrication. Otherwise yes that is normal for that type of pulley, not all alternators have that type of pulley.

120psi is 120psi air or fluid, and it looks like that gauge on the cadillac valve is making around 120psi Likely one of the gauges is off, you need to set up using the same gauge for the air and fluid. Still pretty strange for sure...

Sorry but no, I did my conversion myself. https://www.steelsoldiers.com/threads/how-not-to-install-a-duramax-in-a-m998.199340/

Welcome to SS.

I am curious, what are you starting with, Basic, A2, ECV/REV?

I would be surprised if RWH does Duramax conversions.

The run signal goes through the EESS to the IP, you would want this circuit to be completely separate from all others, run straight to the batteries with of course a fuse, that way if any or all other circuits fail you can still shut down the engine, in IMHO not actually a very desirable way to...

You would run a battery hot all the time wire through a momentary switch to the solenoid, the only time it would be used it to shut down the engine, any time the engine starts turning it will try to run, you must have 24V available to shut it down so that opens a whole new can of worms in your...

It is enough work that you may as well just replace it, it could have been defective from the git-go and the fan always ran.

As stated above you will likely damage the IP from repeated lack of cooling fuel and lubrication, also re-starting will no doubt require a ton of starter time as you will likely have to re-prime the IP every time. (that would be real handy if someone was shooting at you!) You will also be dead...

What possible scenario would justify all that work? if a solenoid failure is the only motivation then just carry a spare. I will now get off my soap box and retire for the eveningo_O

OK, so you figure out how to "run" the engine without electricity, so how are you going to start it?????? If you have enough battery to start it you have enough power to run it for MANY hours if you conserve what you have. AFAIK no modern automatic transmission has a rear pump, for those that...

It helps if the bolt (3/8) is long enough to have an area without threads.

Put a pipe plug in it, or put a bolt and clamp on a short piece of hose.

I had a tractor that if you put it in gear and then started it the clutch worked OK, but once it was running if you released the clutch pedal in neutral you could not get it back into gear without shutting down the engine. Turned out a piece of the disc friction facing sheared off and it would...

One thing you can do since you KNOW the compressor disengages the clutch. Plug the fitting in the valve that goes to the clutch, run the engine and use air pressure on the clutch, if it free wheels when not running but will not disengage when running there is something wrong with the clutch that...

And you must seal that cable, there is fuel pressure there.

Well I got the cases together, the "lower end" if you will I ended up using a Scat C35 cam kit, this would be a "hot street/off road" grind. I purchased the best bearings available at this time, made in Brazil but when I started specking everything out I decided to go with the original German...

You say plugged in, are you talking heater or battery charger? Can you post a video?

It will not always be detectable at idle, run it at high rpm when testing it