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Sorry, that’s pre filter on the m939 series, I just realized you’re probably working on an older truck that wont have these. Do not plumb it in after the air filter as you will be pulling positive pressure on your vents. I used DOT nylon brake tube, I’ll have to look when I get a chance but...

You might check with Roughstuff Specialties, they may be interested in developing some brackets as there could be a decent market if a common disc/caliper combo is readily available. I have no affiliation with them, other than have been buying their parts for years. Great prices for over the top...

I teed mine together and connected into one of the spare ports in the back side of the engine air intake before the air cleaner.

@rustystud ?

Yes, drop to your two best for now, keep the third runner up charged and in the box for when one of those two give up the ghost. I can’t think of a practical way to run three 12v batteries in a straight 24v system?

Look at the rear of the torque converter, is there cool pinwheel looking pattern of dirt/fluid? If so your oil seal is leaking, but does not rule out the possibility of the pump seal leaking as well. If the back of the converter is clean and dry spend the few extra dollars while you have it out...

Sharpend the blades and put gas in it?[emoji6]

Yep, hard to see in the pictures with all the rust, but it has cracks forming on both sides of the narrow spot just above the hinge.

Looks better than factory. Sorry, I guess better late than never?

Check the small line that runs from the dryer to the governor for blockage. If blocked look for a coupler in the line a couple feet in front of the dryer, and check for junk or ice in that union if you truck has it.

Someone on here did a good write up years ago on repairing all the damage to the CTIS, ABS and a few other things, caused by over voltage due to failed generator or improper shutdown sequence. Hopefully the user name will come to me… maybe @saddamsnightmare ?

You probably have a leak too big for the truck compressor to overcome. Put it back on shop air and start soaping the wheel and QR valves while the system is airing up the tires.If no bubbles found try to listen for hub seal leaks as they can be hard to soap.

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Judging by the tire, likely the road tire/wheel for the Husky, still makes it an MRAP wheel. I think I got $75 each for just the wheels that I sold but took quite a while to find a buyer. Also those should be bias tires, so be careful on the corners until you get used to how they behave...

Oh the irony, air cooled motor filled with water. Perfect reason to drop a V12 Screamin Jimmy in it.

Looks like they made the air cooled engine in v8, v12, and maybe v10. Surest way to tell would be to stick your head up in the wheel well and count. Looks rough, and I would think finding parts would be though in the US, maybe some of the European members have some ideas? If engine is too bad...

Sure looks like it has 600GAL, 400GAL, and 200GAL stenciled up on the spine of the tank.

If you installed the hub on the spindle with the seal and spindle dry, I would pull it back apart to inspect the seals for damage, then lube them as well as the surface on the spindle they ride on before reassembly. As previously stated the inner bearing needs packed with grease and packing the...

If you use a high ratio multiplier, convert to inch pounds and adapt down to you inch pound wrench. Much less error likely other than friction loss in the multiplier

Engine should turn quite easy with the injectors out, usually by hand. Also checking the starter for drawing high amps does not always confirm the starter is good.