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So turning the switch to run the light comes on, start the engine and return it to run the light never goes off until you turn the truck completely off.

thanks for the tip. once the parts for my PCB come in and I get that back together I'll test the light without the TCM plugged in.

Anytime the run switch is on. Yes Can I unplug and replug that with the batteries connected or do they have to be disconnected first?

after doing some reading on here I see that my trans light shouldn't always be on, was on when I got the humvee and had a code (73 I think) which I fixed but the light never went away the code just didn't flash anymore so I assumed the light was suppose to always be on. What non-code related...

made some progress today on the humvee while I wait to parts for the PCB. made my own glow plug puller for under 2 dollars. might not be the prettiest but it worked I was able to remove the drive side front plug as shown. the second one back on the passenger side I made a longer pvc sleeve...

so what seemed to happen when it failed is it was always getting power from the solenoid that is currently in there for the alt/heater and since that has power at all time in the run position that's what killed them. (abnormal) ya that's the plan the glow plugs are going on there own solenoid...

I'm not disagreeing with you or the schematic but I was getting power to the glow plugs just from turning the solenoid on so what failed in the board to apply power to the glow plugs when the solenoid is active idk that's all I was saying and sense it's closed all the time it fried the glow...

perfect thanks.

that I don't know, I'm unsure of what the board controls didn't want to just pull it out and yes the fact that the solenoid was putting full time power to the glow plugs is why they burned up. what size relay do u recommend for the glow plugs?

your schematic is very helpful and it's what I will be using to rebuild this thing. would it be easier to just add another solenoid without removing the board if there's enough room? Could just pull power from the battery side of the first solenoid and have the output of that new solenoid be...

but it does control the glow plugs(even if it shouldnt) as this morning when I tested it with a volt meter if I push the manual momentary switch I have power to the glow plugs and all that does is trigger the solenoid. does that explain what failed than maybe? if that solenoid controls the alt...

if I can't get it figured out myself ill buy an aftermarket one. tested the manual glow plug controller with the 6 good plugs and the 2 bad this morning on a cold engine. pushed the glow button for 3 seconds and it fired right up and smoked less than it has in months. with the truck running...

thanks I'll start it and check. only thing changed inside the box was the original trigger wire was cut off and capped/tied up and I added a new wire from the battery side of the solenoid to a switch and back to the trigger on the solenoid. should I have left the original wire took the the...

lol man I tell ya this thing has been nothing but a headache. so I removed 6 of the plugs and replaced them with the old good ones I had and the 2 that wouldn't come I just screwed back down. now I drove it down the road and noticed the voltage gauge is not going into the green so I went back...

I wired the box to be a manual push button and that went really good and was nice and easy. but when I went to test it you could hear the solenoid engaging but there was still no voltage drop so I decided to pull the new OEM glow plugs I installed a couple days ago. when the box failed it...

you guys have been very helpful I am going take the box back out again tomorrow and hook up the solenoid to power by itself and make sure i can get power across it. If the solenoid is good I'm going to disconnect the trigger wire and make my own running from the power side of the solenoid to a...

ya couldn't find a single thing burnt on that board looks brand spanking new. What controls the glow plug timing? maybe thats messed up internally? as far as making it a manual glow plug controller is it really as simple as just robbing power from inside the box somewhere running it to a push...

pulled the PCB apart today and it looks brand new no signs of anything wrong. pulled the massive silver relay/solenoid for the glow plugs off and tested it I can hear it clicking just like it should. so what else can cause the glow plugs not to work? bad temp sensor so it's not calling for heat?

Not sure why it was causing smoke maybe the glow plugs weren't getting power long enough? Yes doesn't seem to be any draw now when the wait light is on the voltage gauge does not drop and I checked there is no power to the glow plugs. I will pull the PCB out and open her up and see what I can find.

well looks like the start box may have been failing the whole time. went to start it today and wait light worked normally but voltage gauge did not. won't start at all now and not getting any voltage to the plugs.