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It would, in some ways. But don't forget that you need to have tail lights and such, too.

Well, I think I'd rather drive "fast" on a fresh ag tires than on old radials. At least as I recall, that was the case with the BLM incident. Besides, keeping in mind that the speed rating is based on max load for the tire, and sustained speeds, most military type tires could probably be driven...

Can't say that speed rating ever entered my mind when picking tires for a SEE.

Pure guesswork on my part, but the attachment points are probably the same as for the regular bed. If you can borrow an 8-foot bed from the correct era, it would be easier to build to that. Either way, I'd bring the box home on a trailer, then work on things from there.

If you don't care about road use (but I think you do), rtrask recently came across a nice and affordable AG tire. Naturally I don't remember the name of it. Too tall for my liking, so I didn't even try. Haven't tried the Swampers in snow yet, but the Pitbulls did better than the stock Michelins...

I think DOT 5.1 could be warranted if, for example, you tend to come out of turn 8a at Laguna Seca way too hot. Or, more realistically for an M1008 perhaps, frequently tow in excess of 10,000 lbs., without trailer brakes.

That would be easy enough to work around, I think. Park on a down slope, or lift the rear end. With the drive train sitting at the correct angle, fill the trans and 'case to the proper level.

Well, that explains why my rocks are about four feet down - they're hiding from the frost.

Would you believe that about two miles south, and down about 50 feet (at river level), there's a gravel pit? Thousands of truck loads of gravel and rock has left from there since '09, when I moved here, and I think that place has been in operation for quite a while.

Thanks, Ahab. It's also a trailer I never use, which is why it ended up being a storage platform. Anyone here want to buy it? Or it's little brother, the 18-foot EBY aluminum bumper pull flatbed?

You mentioned earlier that you "need" a lift kit, at least for the front. May I ask why you "need" it?

I would let the rear U-joints dictate the vertical position of the transfer case. When both U-joints are at the same angle, or very close to it, they're happy. Whether you raise the transfer case or turn the pinion up doesn't really matter as far as the U-joints are concerned, but I'd raise the...

Putting 1/2-ton springs on a 1-ton rarely results in a lift. Even if they did physically bolt in.

With overnight temps now in the mid 20s, it was time to put away the mowers for the season. And when it involves using a FLU, that's not all bad. Unfortunately, the reach of the HMMH was a about five feet too short for plopping the little mower in it's place.

Welcome to the group, Transformer.

That's a good question, Ahab. I'd guess that it happened at about the same time as the stuff in Oregon/Washington was created, or the Grand Canyon for that matter. Or it could've been a smaller ice dam that gave way at some other point. Either way it must've been many moons ago as this part has...

Forgot about that part. But it'd still work fine, as long as you connect the overflow tank to the radiator. Or most any pressurized overflow tank, for that matter.

Next time you're at the hardware store, pick up regular rod in the closest size (which for a FLU would be 1/4 inch). If you don't want to buy a die, buy two bolts - or better yet studs - with the correct thread and weld them to the rod's ends. That way you have a fully functional replacement rod...

I'd use the radiator pressure tester, with the hose connections plugged. But I get the impression that you don't have one. So the Migginsbros method may be your best bet.

Wouldn't it be better to make a new one? A piece of suitable rod and a bit of threading would be all it'd take.