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External drum brakes are a rarity these days.

I would pressure test it, and if it holds the next step would be to straighten out the fins before installing it. Good radiator shops are getting hard to come by, so why spend money on something that probably isn't needed?

Seeing the innards of a Michelin without even trying.

Not the kind of work I like to do with the SEE, but I'm grateful for having it, even for tasks like this. The ripper, which I had only tried briefly once, was a real time saver when getting down to the larger river rock as seen to the right.

I didn't start until I was two or three years old, and even back then it was largely fake.

Working on cars is fun, remember? I hope you do alright with the weather.

I thought that the "coolant upgrade kit" in your neck of the woods was a block heater.

Came across this in an email from yesterday. Click here: Stanley 450 GPM Hydraulic Trash Pump | Featured Items | www.surpluscenter.com

Two 17 mm line wrenches? Or one line wrench and a cut up deep socket?

Yeah, I strongly suspected that your question was directed to Gringo. There's a youtube video (can't remember the title, of course) about Unimog FLUs that briefly shows a pump used with an HME. Which makes sense if a trench needs to be soaked for compaction, or emptied before being covered back...

If you're asking me, the answer is "I don't know". It hasn't been out of the tool box yet, but I'd guess it's a Stanley since the other tools I've seen are. But for draining ponds I'd get a cheap gas powered HF semi-trash pump. Bought a 2-inch version last year for pumping somewhat clear water...

I really need to learn to write "I think..." more often. Or learn to remember better. Either way, judging by the puny hoses, the trash pump doesn't need much flow to run.

The tool circuit is run by the rear pump, so there's some oomph available. How much, if any, it is choked down for the tools I don't know. There's enough to power a 1-inch version of the Stanley 3/4-inch impact the HMMH came with, but at the moment I don't even remember the flow rate or pressure...

The truly sad part is if they indeed couldn't tell that the parts were recently replaced, just by looking at them.

Yep, you just treat each battery as a separate one, putting the charger on the one you want to charge. It doesn't matter how many batteries are involved, or whether they're wired in series or parallel, as long as the charger is for the same voltage as the battery.

I could live with that. As long as they repaired what they were supposed to correctly. Actually, it could be an advantage if they pointed out something I somehow missed. Then I would fix it myself.

My first action would be to load check the batteries. Then I'd look for less than good connections. By the way, one way to keep the connections happier would be to leave them alone, including when charging the batteries. There's no reason to disconnect the batteries when charging them. Also...

So I'm not the only one who doesn't even like the thought of others working on my vehicles. Largely that's because I usually end up doing the job myself, anyway, except right.

That is the part that will pay off big time. Heck, losing the Gov-Lok is almost worth the price of admission by itself.

With one exception (NAPA being only 11 miles away) the parts stores are 65 to 85 miles away for me. Which I why I rely heavily on mail order. Whichever grade of brake fluid you decide on, be sure to buy enough to thoroughly flush the system out.