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The switch is near the pivot of the clutch pedal, and you can push it in by hand, too. But since it has to be activated for the SEE to start in the first place, it most likely either works or is bypassed. At one point I thought that the splitter didn't work on mine, or that the rpm difference...

I don't think having air to it has anything to do with the lever's operation. Or do you mean that the splitter is stuck in low? The few times I've put it in high, there really hasn't been much of a difference, so it always stays in low. Might be a noticeable difference on the road, but not in...

My 1008 is far from nice, yet it works great as a 4x4/farm workhorse. I think the nice ones deserve a better life.

Hey, great job! And it looks like you might've had fun doing it. Ask General Hood about the best remedy for the scratches, and which type of wax he favors these days. I would think that you'll need some sort of drain pipe(s) for overflow...or you can go in a fix any damage with the SEE, having...

Led Zeppelin? It comes free through the air on several stations.

Ouch, that sucks. I suppose you'll be looking for a tranny, or an entire FLU. On the positive side, you probably won't have to worry about how to put the original trans back together.

I understand why the rear shock mounts were made low; to avoid having the top of the shocks poke up through the bed. What I don't get is why the upper front mounts were made so low, and consequently the shocks so short, when there was plenty of space available.

I don't see why that wouldn't work. But while I've been concentrating on getting them lower (by using different tires or otherwise) it would still be easier and cheaper to use hydraulic cylinders, I think.

Kinda. Except that the fluid is pumped into the top to lower it (gotcha!) The pump in the HMMH only runs until the suspension is compressed, so there's probably no actual shock absorber function in them, with normal orifices. Still, the HMMH handles like a sports car compared to a SEE, but that...

Regardless of anything else, I wouldn't drive it over 10 mph until smaller tires are installed in the rear. With the sidewalls making contact there's no room for speed, or a load of any kind, as they would quickly build heat and self destruct.

Regroovable would mean that the existing tread can be cut deeper. I'm thinking of creating more biting edges (but I think you knew that). Thought more about it last night, and might try at least the rears on the HMMH. Its tires are fairly fresh, and still had the little tits on them when I got...

Today I used the tire groover on some tires for a little dump truck, which made me wonder if anyone has tried grooving the Michelins in an effort to get some sort of traction out of them. Not that there are any (to me) obvious cuts to be made, other than across each tread block, but still. It's...

The fill plug is on the right side, not very cleverly hidden.

Frank, yes you can feed pressure to the axles from an external source. From one of those portable air tanks, for example. But I'm afraid that there may be more to it than to get air to the rear locker (the 4WD you can engage manually if need be, in which case you might as well lock both axles)...

Anyone who has run out could make that claim.

Okay, okay (both of you). Found a couple.These are from October '15, before it was even "test fired".

I think that long rest periods and a lack of lubrication combined with heavy military boots is what turns FLU throttle linkages into pretzels. And by "military" I really mean GP personnel. It seems that when faced with a stuck injector pump, stomping harder on the throttle is the answer.

Okay, I'll try to get them done somewhat soon. Or at least show the parts that still needs to be welded up. Dirt cheap Craftsman 8mm multi sockets and bent, ground/filed rod, basically. Also, a modified train key version. Plus I found $5 ratcheting 10mm wrenches some time back, perfect for the...

Did get the ditch filled in and cattle guard moved as planned. To get the fluids warmed up, the HMMH was first used for something FLUs are undeniably good at; compaction. For something like this, even the factory Michelins work well. Mission accomplished.

You can use a jumper cable to bypass the master disconnect for now. I can give you the key measurements tomorrow. No pun intended. And speaking of expensive keys, I have a couple of dirt cheap hood/battery box keys in the works.