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S, STD or no markings usually denote standard pistons. Make sure you hone the cylinders with a bar hone to deglaze and put a good x-hatch back in them. If you don't, you'll ahve built a large oil pump.

That STARTED life as an M114. M113 as it's varients have 5 road wheels and the track is different. Also, the 113 has the engine in the very front of the carrier. Sad, just sad :cry:

I have some aluminum housed lights..they are "normal" M series looking lights, just aluminum and not plastic. The BO side are all LED and the regular lights, stop, run, turn, are incandesant. Just thought it was a good thing!

Cold it should be at about the "K" in check on the stick...'bout an inch above the full mark. If you check it immediatly after shutdown, it will show a tad below the full mark.

Right where we sit! That also leaves more time for wheelin'!

I was seeing and thinking the same thing. Looks as though there isn't room to go over a parking bump and not hurt something. That's ALOT of rubber crammed into the wheel wells.

All the above is good advice. Sometimes when a project is being difficult, it helps to take a breather. Hopefully when you resume your installation, it will fall together. The chainfall is a giant help. It gives you the small movements you need to put the shaft nose into the bearing. Be careful.

Will Do.

Evil black ones...MMMMWWWWHHHHAAAA. I can't wait :twisted:

Dunno 'bout that, my Lindsey can burp, fart and make just as much noise as the boys....keep it up, i'll need not worry about the boys flocking around the doorstep!

The orange seals are for keeping dirt, mud, bugs, rat turds and such out...you are correct scooter! The seal washers are for sealing the compression and for giving the nozzle the correct protrusion into the cylinder. Memphis, Antelope Valley and others will have them.

I had the best luck pulling one of the pipe plugs in the intake manifold right at the stat and installing a petcock. They are kinda a biatch to fill. If you have a radiator pressure tester, fill it, install the tester and pump it up 'till the coolant comes out of the petcock. If you don't have a...

NAPA will not have them. McMaster does, P/N 50815K104.

They are much bigger than the ones used on the B or C. Try Memphis.

Injectors might be different due to flow and the tprque rise might be different, meaning that if you use the truck to pull, you might notice a difference in the way it handles hills. I'll work, but i'd do the original pump so it can be put back to the way it was. Southdave, that is a PT...

Want a tax deduction?

There is a tag on the top/front of the pump body. There are numbers on it. Do the CPL and code match?

Dunno if this link will work. Click on lubricants and additives, chain and cable lubricants then cable lube. This stuff has worked great for me. ..:: PJ1 ::..

Done it. It is easier to pull the two water rails from the heads instead of the intake. The intake and exh need to be removed as an assembly. Just an FYI, the bolts for the water rail are 2 1/4 in long, IIRC. The local Home Depot or ACE won't have them. Before you remove them, give them a good...

Do I read that Polverone will make it??!! WooHoo!:jumpin: