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That pin location makes a lot of sense

off the top of my head i believe I have 4 spots for wires. "battery", "on", "start" and "off" each connection links the the "battery" terminal when the key is turned to it when the key is off power flows from battery to off when int he on possition it flows to the on terminal etc. I tested...

if the fluid looks that bad you need to at the least do a tear down and inspect every major component, every wheel cylinder etc. if they all check out then flush fresh fluids. but chances are you will find items needing rebuilds and replacement. from other past threads the pumping breaks...

I actually really like the idea of a 3 way split - but buying 2 more airpacs isn't money i would part with easily. I search this site for 2 hours this morning and couldn't find the diameter of the master cylinder bore. Hope someone chimes in with that info.

your switch doesn't have a momentary "start" position? in order to make it do what you want you will either have to use it along with the push start or get a new key switch. I have one from a caterpiller and it has the momentary possition then flips back to "on" automaticly.

really don't think a deuce has enough power to defeat the wind drag. drag starts climing rapidly over 60mph

part of why accurate oil pressure readings are so important - you will see drops in oil pressure long before you get enough clearance for a knock. in which case you can usually just replace bearings and it's just like new. once you get a knock often the crank will be damaged.

sounds like the solenoid valve is too weak to open at higher pressures. I replaced my horns with louder/lower ones. I've got the old valve if you need it.

how is your reel setup? I was just looking at autorewinding hose reels last night thinking about how nice that would be to get it out of the toolbox.

but it does go through the drum adaptor - ok good to know. minor effect on the adaptor design. different bolt length for the front and rear adaptors. it brings up an interesting issue though - unless i want to pull the hub to service the front brakes, i need the adaptors to bolt on from the...

found this picture in another thread... http://www.steelsoldiers.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=209564&d=1288606715 can anybody confirm that the sheel studs onthe front hubs go through the brake drum?

sounds like a good system to me - in America cars are all split front/rear due to the front getting ~60% more fluid than the rear. It's near impossible to do that well on a 3 axle truck so the assymetrical setup sounds like a good balance. just have to decide on the right dual outlet master...

yes I replaced my starter button witht he keyed switch from a caterpiller. it has several positions and once you flip it to the start momentary setting you can't do it again untill going all the way to off. (safety lockout to avoid messing up the starter) even has a hot when off wire for...

haven't completed that many yet: keyed ignition moded battery box for 3 batteries battery equalizer for 12v tap half way done is the single motor electric wiper upgrade with delay switch but I think by far my favorite was the muffler - http://aeroperformanceexhaust.com/ I got the model...

I'll have to look at the fittings on the end of a set of hoses - I know i can order all the different types of fittings and hose to length from summitracing

i've done this on other cars, is there a kit with the right hoses and fittings? or did you just order the lengths and fittings yourself?

I don't have a horse int he race against air brakes. specificly concerning the deuce I just believe that an upgade to multiple circuit hydraulics is the best solution.

I've never had a vehicle that the oil pressure at idle didn't drop once warmed up. It's a simple matter of fluid viscocity thinning with heat.

sounds like we need to swap gauges

since i bought mine it reads 30 running and then drops to ~0 at idle warmed up. I assumed that it was a mismatch between the gauge and the sender (60 psi gauge and maybe a 120psi sender)