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If you drive it off a cliff it will go very fast!:ROFLMAO: For awhile at least!:eek:

Welcome to the forum. You "want" a 6.5L GEP engine and a 4 speed if you plan on driving on the road much, The GEP is an improved version of the GM engine and the 4 speed is an overdrive transmission with a lockup converter, this is the most desirable combination. Go down the forum and read some...

Are all the wheel studs the same? the only part number I can find is for a 12 bolt wheel 5306014172467. These are the studs that hold the two wheel halves together.

It would be possible to turn the pinion shaft with the P brake on if all the bolts were missing from one of the inboard CV joints. But that should be pretty obvious. If you did shear a pinion the input yoke would certainly have some slack in it (in/out)

Even though I was waddling like a duck Monday after stuffing myself Sunday I managed to get the half shafts on, even my mentor with 30 years experience with off road buggies said these are somewhat of a PITA. They are not sealed like a HMMWV half shaft, the flanges on the trans and stub shafts...

You can use two switches which is what I do, I use a Cole Hersey for the 12V which is heavy enough for the 12V, that Flaming River switch looks like a good one, it has close the same ratings as the Hella switches I use, 2500A for 5sec. VS 2500A for 10sec for the Hella I just remember to...

You do not need a fully rated second switch as the 12V side does not have the current flow the main (24V) side does. BTW IMHO that switch is fairly marginal on the main side for a HMMWV.

Probably for the same reason I have seen instructions on 12V systems for decades that say to remove the positive battery cable to de-energize the vehicle, makes no difference on a 12V system and it is safer to remove the negative, just like it is safer to cable up to the switch on the negative...

I see no reason that will not work, that is the same thing I am doing with two switches on the Detroit.

The GEP plug is smaller on the end, looks like a great idea as even if it swells a little bit as the other ones did it still should come out OK!!

Only a slight chance of explosion, many shop vacs have brush type motors:oops:

They are not on the back of the truck, they are in front of, almost on top of the fuel tank, removing these are one of the first things just about everyone does because they are so problematic. Just do one at a time so you do not get the lines crossed.

Probably all you will get on that old of a port is codes, which is easy enough using the trans light.

That cable above should work, you will need a OBD1 scan tool, I thought you said it had one, here is a pic of the OBD 1 connector, much different than the OBD II used today.

Please post pics of the cable. Here is a cable someone designed for the military 4L80 but it is for the tech 1 tool, not sure if that is a standard OBD, seems the reg OBD uses pins in the center of the plug.. EDIT, I may be thinking of the OBDII connector

I don't think I have ever seen any documentation on an OBD port, maybe someone else can address that, meanwhile I would see if that shop can read the TCM just for kicks The one on my 6L80 is really handy, I can see temps, etc. You can get a reader for doodly squat on fleabay, I have one in...

If the 4L80 is set up to go out of lock at idle and you have a tach you should be able to remove your foot from the accelerator and then when you press it again you will see the RPM drop after a second or two as it goes back into lockup. The only trucks I work on with 4L80s are a couple ranchers...

Not necessarily, as I said it should go out of lock with or without the switch as it downshifts. That was an edit that came in as you were writing the response. Also most transmissions go out of lock when the accelerator is returned to idle, so the brake switch is just a redundant safety. If...

If the TC is in lock when you come to a stop it will kill the engine just like stopping a standard without pushing in the clutch, other than that no harm will come, most transmissions will not go into lockup in 1st or 2nd so even without the brake switch it should operate normally (to say the...

To whom are you speaking to? The OP posted a picture of what he was talking about.