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Check the bolts on the lower part of where the pump bolts on they go into the water jacket and will leak if not tight they should have sealant on them from when they were put on but who knows.

You can use vise grips or a small pipe wrench to break the striker loose usually you can see an outline where the spacer was on the door pillar so just put it in the same position it was and tighten it back up after getting the bushing on the pin.

No negitivity on my part sorry if I came across that way the last sentence in the above post just means to many guys go changing to manual GP control and really do some damage not knowing how to use the system.

Yes the wire from the + side bus bar goes to the resistor then over to the glowplug solenoid the problem is the resistor goes bad then fries the GPs I only route the 8 gauge wire from the front battery if the resistor is bad I dont change anything from stock configuration unless forced to...

Its relatively easy to convert to 12 volt I have done a few there is a step by step write up with pictures done by rosecommon I think I found it on this site in the resources section but you will have to change your starter to a 12 volt unit and they are pricey.

The power for the trucks 12 volt electric system comes from the battery closest to the firewall it comes off the negitive terminal through a red 8 gauge wire and goes to the power block with the two terminals on the upper driver side of the firewall

I have a source for gauge panels a friend of mine is a scrap dealer and keeps them off to the side when dismantleing his trucks.

Yes understanding the system is helpful I have bought and sold quite a few of these and probably 60 percent of them had bad GPs first place I check is the resistor they go bad and put the full 24 volts to the GPs and fries them all. At least splitting the 12 volt load for the GPs and powering up...

If you use a jumper wire off the 12 volt power source at the firewall by the glow plug solenoid to power the solenoid your not only drawing the power to energize your glow plugs but the 12 volt power feed for the rest of the truck comes from the same source tapping the power from the front...

If your resistor on the firewall was bad it was shooting 24 volts to the GP solenoid by going to a 24 volt solenoid you dont burn out the solenoid but you still fry the 12 volt glow plugs.

A lot of time the resistors are bad thats why they were bypassed I take a 8 gauge wire and run it from the + on the front battery to the top post of the glow plug relay.By doing it this way you dont pull both the voltage for the 12 volt system and the GPs off the same battery you split the load...

They were sold in either louisiana or mississippi I dont recall which base they came off of.

Thats the same thing I ask myself why all the GL deuces except one I just bought has no pioneer tools on it until a couple weeks ago they sold two triwalls in the same lot full to the top with pioneer tools.

Nice trailer you will like dragging that around behind your 1009 I just got done painting a couple of those mine is the antique 101A1 version.

The tire man I buy from says there has been problems with used tires taken off A3s he has had numerous complaints of sidewall blow outs.

I just recieved a box of 25 of these too as many trucks as I buy and sell these will go fast.

Its been my experience the five tons and deuces were for the most part ready to go aside from batteries and fuel filters but most of the CUCVS have had issues. I have all my CUCVs shipped now or if they are reasonably close I tow bar them home it can make a fun trip into a nightmare fast...

The thicker washer has to be turned off they dont usually slide off like the spacer does.

On the striker bushings dont force them onto the pin if you have a drill press put a sharp new bit into it and with your thumb push the bushing inside against the drill bit shaving a little at a time off the inside to make it fit snug. They will crack after a while if forced onto the pin a note...

Get a few of these and the door will close like new.