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If a cap is secured on the tank, they are punching holes in tanks like you said. I worked at Autozone back when fuel went really high the first time. At least once every couple of days we had someone coming in for a new fuel tank.
That isn't what I was talking about, I've already caught the warning as well, thank you though.
What I was asking about was using a Chevy brake light switch on the brake pedal instead of the Deuce switch on the air pack.
So if I am reading Donkdonk's and m16ty's posts correctly, as long as the tractor is 26k or less, the trailer and load can be a total of (added to the tractors weight) 80k pounds and still not require a CDL as long as none of the components are of a commercial origin?
I think I have the exact same problem that you do JC. My pump is running, but I don't think it's putting anything out. Let me know what you end up doing with your pump. I'm waiting on ordering anything until I can get back home and flow test mine to be sure.
I think I have the same problem, my pump turns on, but I don't think it is pumping any fuel. It's hard as **** to start in cold weather, if it even starts at all and doesn't have the power that it had when I first drove it home.
I'm down in Smyrna, TN for a few weeks with the Army. I was out and about one evening and spotted a M109 (I think) in a driveway. Is it anyone that's on the board?
I think you're grasping what I'm getting at.
If the front tandem is welded/spooled and has the OEM lockout kit, only one wheel has a lockout. The other wheel is still tied to the spool whether or not the other wheel is locked. Will the truck drive fine with the front tandem welded and the...
I have been considering welding the front tandem and running the lockout kit. Then, when I can afford it, putting regular lockers front and rear tandem. I'm waiting to hear a good word on how a welded front tandem would act with the lockout kit unlocked.
I have a mud truck with a spooled rear...
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