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I put my spare on the bench and the clearances and throw are identical to yours, the wear pattern is a bit wider but not significantly so. Looking at the "damage" to your flywheel it looks "old" not new as the area is not shiny like "new" damage would look so I am assuming that is from days...

81A carries the 24V to the EESS box, it basically feeds power to everything but the starter

If you had the HMMWV maint. tool kit you would have seal drivers that would make the job even easier.

Let me play with one of my spares in the AM, I am thinking the collar should be pressed against the thrust washer, if I were building it I would stack more thrust washers on the brush end of the armature, but shaft movement is normal, most are fairly sloppy, but that would not be limiting the...

Kick the solendoid on the small terminal and see if the bendix goes all the way out

"In any case, these starting issues only started happening after the first time the starter was accidentally engaged while the engine was running. Which, to your point about how it should damage the teeth in that scenario, leaves me a little puzzled haha" It could be that the starter gear would...

So that would be the 200A charging cable, probably not an issue. You may want to check all the cable connections between the battery and the starter. There are only two mechanical components, the flex plate and the starter, as long as there is no issue with juice getting to the starter it...

BTW that damaged area was from the starter trying to engage the flex plate when the engine was not running, when you accidentally engage the starter while the engine is running you tend to round off the gear edges all the way around the flex plate. You might put a voltmeter on the starter ground...

My next move would be to replace the starter and carefully file the damaged teeth so there is no interference from the existing damage, it really does not look bad enough to condemn the flex plate quite yet unless it is bent. Also where does that wire you repaired go? it has an asphalt loom so...

Yes it has a shim, well I would assume the folks that engineered it wanted to use the entire width of the flex plate. but I have never been able to observe it myself. The flex plate could also be bent, it happens. You may want to measure it against some reference point in several different...

Does your starter have a shim? It MIGHT be possible the gear backlash is so tight the gear cannot/does not fully engage

Here is my build thread NO it will not just bolt up, but it is doable, probably not practical unless you have a fully equipped shop. https://www.steelsoldiers.com/threads/6l80-in-my-m998.204941/

Monitoring the pressures on a 700R4 when installed is a fairly big deal, the TV cable adjustment is critical to the transmission survival, if far enough off it can fry the transmission in just a few miles, I am NOT saying that was the case here but the shop installing it should have monitored...

I have always recommended that folks get their trans built by a local shop and this experience bears that out, having said that because I do all the install work myself I picked a highly recommended shop in Houston, a 4 hour drive yes but in Texas that is "local"

That spare tire carrier is a mixed blessing, makes it a real PITA to get into the back of the truck!

Well that was a waste of good diesel, went down to the DVM in Corpus this morning, they received the picture I sent them Friday but chose to ignore my request that they acknowledge that they received it! Waiting on Austin to classify the FAV, fingers crossed as they could give me a clear title...

With the 60A it charges through the PCB, all larger alternators charge directly to the batteries, the 200A for example uses the switched lead #5 that used to be the charging line as a exciter for the 200A and the original small 60A "568" exciter wire is capped off. That aftermarket may or may...

OOORRRRR, none of the original FAVs had data plates and this is just something someone dreamed up???? Although I have seen the word "surrogate" on several different documents pertaining to the original FAV, I of course I am certainly not the first to see any of those documents...

OK now I see what you are saying, my M998 lines run the same way although less of them (went back with two supply lines both with socks and one vent line), I had no problem pulling the tank with them in place

That does not sound like a PCB issue, all it does is excite the alt, that would be wire #5 attached to the sense terminal of the alt, as long as you are getting 24V there when the run switch is on then that is good. At first glance I would say you may have two bad regulators that have failed in...