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Old thread I know but all of the above TMs only show "hand receipts" no pictures or instructions that I can see.

They copied all my paperwork and sent it to Austin for classification, waiting on a response. REALLY nice folks!!

Probably the mechanics personal tag

I would assume ether the RT524 or a man pack with vehicle adapter (PRC-77 also very expensive), the folks on the M151 forum could help with that. The RT524 radios are very expensive, I have seen folks trying to get $2500 for them, not that many years ago you could not give one away!

You can always take it to a local starter/gen shop and have it tested, most do it free for reg alternantors but my local shop charges $20 because it is so heavy which makes it a hassle to set up.

Starts around post #9, no rivets cut that I can remember, maybe a couple but I don't grind rivets I cut them with a sharp chisel https://www.steelsoldiers.com/threads/m998-turbo-conversion.208656/

I see someone moved this from the FAV forum, this IS IN REFERENCE to the restoration of my FAV I have been looking for an RT524, most I see are junk, I picked up a nice one that came with a pile of accessories, cables, mount etc, and is supposed to work. I was wondering about the radio bolt...

I have an appt in Corpus at the TxDVM to morrow at 9:45AM, fingers crossed!!

When you say the 14V is dead are you reading the 14V tap with the cable disconnected? The 200A is the most reliable despite your troubles, where are you reading the 22-28V?

The trailer is another story, my trailer had farm tags and they were expired, I did not want to tempt fate by using a trailer with farm tags. So I borrowed a trailer from the little diesel shop just down the road, as I was loading it up yesterday afternoon I noticed the tag was out on that...

I did not want to comment before and jinks the process. When I found out the Beeville PD did the VIN verification in Bee county I felt much better, sometimes a DPS officer can be a total wild card. THEN I found out who the officer was and felt even better, he is also a vol. fireman which means...

The connector should be correct on both sides yes???

Interesting, it is not a "mirror" image as it should be just the same "image" BOY that is a GOOD discovery on your part as it may save someone allot of grief, definitely stuffed into my memory banks!!

Maybe an import switch?

Oil and filters are CHEAP insurance, motor oil in the can only has a five year shelf life.

Also folks that think they can use a synthetic oil and have extended change intervals are mistaken, the Detroits are very "dirty" engines compared to modern gas and diesel engines so the oil gets contaminated before the normal service life of synthetics is reached.

Because if you do not drive enough miles in a year to change it then that means you are not driving it enough to keep moisture and other contaminants from building up and the additive package also starts to deteriorate affecting the viscosity and cleaning ability.

You should change the motor oil and filter at least once a year no matter how many miles you have on it or how nice it looks

A member asked me in a PM to elaborate on how I installed the offset mounts on the Detroit, so I thought I would put it in a thread, so all could see and comment. Not saying this is the only way, just the way I did it. The two holes used on the rear are probably already in the body. It is pretty...

NO you cannot use the casting position as a timing reference, every pump is different, that is why it has a timing mark!