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I bought a set of used tires. Two of which have deep tread cuts and more minor sidwall damage. One of the two still has a bolt stuck into the tread. How concerned should I be about being able to safely use the tires?

This will be my last post, I promise. I agree that a vacuum pump is not EXACTLY the same as an engine. The vacuum pumps that we use do not have any one way valves (turbo, diffusion, cryo, roughing, etc). Let's look at the case where the intake is open, exhaust is closed, and the piston is...

To a first approximation engines are air pumps and, with the butterflies closed, are vacuum pumps. Obvioulsy, a closer look complicates the analysis. My point is simply that there are no real pumping losses for an engine or pump which is not pumping anything.

Just tie your 12V alternator to the middle of your two 12V batteries. No nead for a third battery.

No, it still works. The intake valve opens as the piston is on the downward stroke, the chamber is at a pressure less than atmosphere (it takes work to to pressurize ambient atmosphere), the intake closes, the piston moves on the upward stroke which is aided by higher ambient atmospheric pressure.

Sorry, but this is wrong. We have numerous types of roughing and high vacuum pumps at my job. Some of them allow monitoring of instantaneous power. Power drops with pressure. Maintaining a vacuum takes very little power. There are no pumping losses if you are not pumping anything. Whatever...

I don't agree. In my experience, a vacuum pump has much lower loss when operating at a high vacuum. It isn't pumping anything. To think of another way... Think of the diesel engine compressing the air like compressing a spring. The engine rotates compressing and releasing, compressing...

Maybe this has already been answered but I have not read through all of the posts. I have an old codified law book somwwhere and the requirement did exist for a mechanical connection. I suspect that this was quietly repealed to allow for drive-by-wire.....

This has an easy solution. Use a VRLA battery (ie. concorde) and don't overcharge the battery.

There is nothing to be confused about. 50wt oil is common and available. Go to a shop that services larger trucks.

I found Oxyclean and HOT water extremely effective in removing grease/dirt on an aluminum intake manifold.

Try a local big truck shop; ours had it on the shelf in the showroom. Either way, don't lose sleep about it. I doubt that the military would use 90wt if it was severely detrimental to the transmission life.

We have had good luck from www.powerstream.com

50wt oil is what the transmission designer specified. Use what you want.

Your neighbors need to man up and get the HOA rules changed instead of hoping that they don't get caught.

Where did you get yours from? I just found them on Amazon for 1/2 the price of NAPA.

What part number are you using for the 3/4" NPT block heater? I ordered two of the Kats 11619 block heaters from NAPA and, while the book claims 600W, the actual heater element is labeled 400W.

Sorry buddy but the joke is on you. Current flow IS opposite electron flow.

There is no need to weld the frame; you are just shortening it. In my discussions with the state, they really don't concern themselves with modifications that reduce the number of axles.

I have replaced this style of ball stud on 47-53 chevy pickups. Replacement, threaded ball studs are available for the 1/2 ton and may also be available for larger trucks of the same era which also fit the M35. Ball Stud-On Pitman Arm-Classic Parts Adjusting the drag link, pitman and...