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Just get the adjusters working and get them close to where they were before you took it apart - eyeball the piston exposure and put them back similarly. Then go drive the truck and mash on the brakes harder and harder about 15-20 times. The adjusters will sort it out for you. Be gentle at first...

I use a 4:1 multiplier (X4 - https://www.x4tool.com/torque-multipliers/3-4-inch-torque-multipliers), and they recommend 10% additional torque to compensate for mechanical losses in the planetary gears. 125 ft/lbs input = 450 ft/lbs output. With a ~24" torque wrench you only need apply 62.5...

Manual valve would be my preference on a non tilt cab truck. The classic six-way brass lever valve.... Not convenient with our trucks - I'm not running six damn fuel lines up through the cab pivot interface.... Not too concerned with reliability. This being a hydraulic cylinder control valve it...

Thinking of using one of these for switching fuel supply and return. I have a second FMTV tank and brackets to go behind the primary...

Factory would be a Parker DRC601-4

BIG 24v air conditioning system for the troop transport, large amount of HID lighting including joystick remote controlled spot lights, communications and Blue Force tracking gear, CROWS weapons station, active armor RPG countermeasures, Driver's Vision Augmentation System, Night vision systems...

Pieces of it are probably still lodged somewhere in the line before (wheel side) the QRV. This is a flow issue holding the wheel valves open not a QRV issue in my opinion.

Correct. Ground is still ground for all the chassis circuits. It's only the charging circuits that have isolated grounds.

You have a partial blockage - if it's both front tires then it's probably between the QRV and where it splits to go to either front wheel. The pressure between the QRV and the tires is not dropping off to below 5 psi to close the wheel valves. At higher pressures you need more flow and if you...

If you are going to do "double alternator" you have to do it the way the CUCV did it. GM knew the answer - two alternators with isolated grounds that each charge their own battery. Both were 12v and each handled one battery independently. The 24v for the starter, glow plugs, and slave receptacle...

Yeah - WTEC-III too. Thought they had switched to the IV by then. Interesting.

Wow! Super clean. That one will go high. 944 miles! Earlier A1R with the low pinion rear axle. No battery drawer either. Looks like it was even serviced in '22! Last one I saw sell on the civilian side went for $55k or so. Wasn't that nice but was a 2008 high pinion truck.

Why I prefer the models with the MHC for cargo duties! :cool:

Plus air brake lines, air brake wedge piston seals, air brake canister diaphragms, brake treadle valve seals, ALL the weatherstripping and glass seals, every marker light neoprene seal (cab entry point for water), every grommet, duck-bill drain, intake elbows and couplings, basically every part...

Sweet! I'm going to delete the springs off my old set and give it a try!

No did not apply any glue. I noticed that as well. Seemed redundant so I didn't bother.

Look to how the presidential motorcades do it. And here's one resource: https://www.carrot-top.com/blog/the-correct-way-of-displaying-american-flags-on-all-types-of-vehicles?srsltid=AfmBOopfydV91K5s-nNJQtheZPbtJw82r63vFuxvYJlPx0Rvb2uiyOrn I'm not aware of any TM's that have that information...

What year is this truck? Which alternator? Which voltage regulator? Does the regulator go into OVCO? Flashing red LED? Read through my thread on my over-voltage problem. Check all your connections at the LBCD (if you have one) and check for leaking capacitors...

Those guys have really good pricing on lots of stuff actually. FMTV Brake Shoe kit with springs: https://www.pgttruckparts.com/MPS4285-Rockwell-Mps-Kit-brake-parts-p/2643-mps4285.htm I've found quite a few items they have the best pricing online that I've seen.

Yep. I'm three years in and I'm still doing maintenance and upgrades. But my confidence level in my truck is higher than ever with 23k miles of daily driving on it. It is hard to think of ANY rubber parts I haven't replaced or aren't on my list for replacement. And mine is a 2008 so even the A1R...