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There aren't exactly many turbo choices for the mf. The "d" turbo produces the most cfm. Though it is possible to put an lds turbo on an ldt. It produces more cfm than the "d" but I'm not really sure what the results of the swap would be.

No need to re hook up the fdc. Just turn the fuel down a hair. That's the reason many people have increased power when they bypass the fdc. It retards the fuel. That's its function. But your fuel screw sets the max rate the fuel can be delivered. If it runs hot just back it down. Same...

Park your truck on flat concrete or asphalt. Then get down and look at the tread contact patch. It should be flat all the way across.

Even on a car you normally shouldn't run the tires at max psi.

If you bypass the fdc and it sustains temps over 1200°F then you can back the fuel screw down. More than likely you won't need to.

Here is what my truck looks like with 35 psi in front and 30 psi in the rears. As you can see they have just a bit of a bulge.

Basically. You can also run a tire over inflated for the weight it is carrying. Radials are supposed to bulge a bit at the bottom.

Max psi is just that. Max psi. You guage the air pressure by the amount of weight and number of axles. The deuce just isn't that heavy compared to what the 395s are designed to handle. For me running 30-35 psi gives full contact of the tread and the best handling.

Looking good Dan! Don't sweat on the win sheild seals. I mean, yes they suck to install, but it's just a minor bump in the road.

http://www.constructionequipment.com/basics-diesel-engine-coolant Here's a good article about diesel engine coolant and why you should use it. It also details the difference between Oat and sca additives.

One more thing. Flush the system and start fresh with all the same brand/type anti freeze. Oat and regular diesel anti freeze with sca additives do not like each other.

Looks good.

I'm going to agree with everyone here and say this was supposed to be a p.m. But, just in case anyone wants to know, you can get edpm rubber hose at tractor supply or similar type stores. Look in the chemical spray rig isle. You will find it in 5ft. rolls.

Just go to your parts store and get antifreeze made specifically for diesel engines. Color doesn't matter. Never put automotive anti freeze in a diesel engine.

Remove the turbo before you drill and tap the manifold.

I guess I should have given more detail. It is both a large bore air chuck and large bore valve stem. You will have to swap the valve stems in the wheels. As far as a set and forget air chuck, I'm not sure. Truthfully, you would have to be pretty negligent to over inflate a super single...

Those are 9.00-20 ndcc's. Def not the greatest sand tires. But, the same principle applies. Air them down. You should be able to make do if the sand isn't too fine and powdery.

With 395s you can count on about 15 min or longer a tire. That is using the on board air system of the truck. I run 35 psi in the front and 30 in the rear. These are large tires that require large volumes of air. This is also running a standard air chuck. A large bore one would speed...

Keep it simple. Start by having your batteries tested.

If your running 395 super singles and you air the tires down the deuce will do ok in the sand. The fun part is airing the tires back up when your ready to leave.